Tyne Class 1/20 + slideway and boathouse

Hi all,
what a 'big' project, not just a boat ....

My latest work was refurbishing my first model (built 2016), the german motor-lifeboat LÜBECK II  (Sievers model kit).
The LÜBECK II and sisters were 13m long, my 1:20 scale 67cm (incl. bow fender). -- I'll post a summary about her in the next weeks.
My plan was to build next the bigger lifeboat of that time, the HINDENBURG IV (17m) but then, as life goes ....
I watched to many videos on youtube, a lot with rnli boats. I had a few discussions with other model builder here
in germany which are rnli 'afficinados' and finally I got the virus (no, not corona).

Today the Sarik Hobbies Tyne class hull and plans arrived. Send from a nice fellow down in bavaria, who bought that 'just in case' before the brexit.
My LÜBECK II inside the hull of a tyne class:


The hull should be 1:18 but it seems smaller.
The plan of '5/8 to the foot' seems to be 1:19 (translated ), I've scanned the plan in pieces and glued them together so that I have an option to cut out what I want without destroying the original plan.

The deck on the hull seems to fit quite well, stern, sides and front agree quite good, I just have to add a cm somewhere, which shouldn't be that problem.




I already got the 1986 Model Boat build article and will read through at least 3 built blogs in different forum.
I may come up with tons of questions here 

The transport box will be the boat house and for the slideway I -- already have some ideas.
At the moment my favorite boathouses + slipway are  St. Davies, Douglas and Wicklow.

After visiting the photos in the Douglas website I think the Sir William Hillary will be it. (the name rules)


Well, enough for now, I need a coffee.

Have fun,

Joerg
P.S.: Appologize for funny english.

Joerg there is no need to apologise for your English - there are some English people on other forums who I have difficulty following

I think the discrepancy in scale may be due the fact that the plan you have was not copied from the original. The history of the Plans Service means that they have passed through a number of owners, and maybe the originals got lost or damaged. Also some copiers have a habit of stretching the copy.

Barrie

barriew wrote:

Joerg there is no need to apologise for your English - there are some English people on other forums who I have difficulty following

I think the discrepancy in scale may be due the fact that the plan you have was not copied from the original. The history of the Plans Service means that they have passed through a number of owners, and maybe the originals got lost or damaged. Also some copiers have a habit of stretching the copy.

Barrie

Hi Barrie,
on one hand you're right, has been a long time since the 80's. On the other hand the hull is definitely a tiny bit too long, or not wide enough (if I would take tit's length for scaling).

Anyways, the plan has 741x226cm without and 750x236cm with surrounding bumpers.  So without bumpers recalculated it would be 14,08m (orig.14,32m) long and 4.294m (orig. 4,47m) wide -- thus 24cm (9.5inch) and 17.6cm (7inch) difference .... for the hull it would be 43cm (17inch) in length.

Nothing I worry about, but I know now that I have to compare lengths if they appear on different drawings of the plan (what I usually forget ).

Best,
Joerg

Hi,
starting with 16.7 or so, it was indeed 18 knots  at the end (did ever anyone measure the highest when they were fully euiped in action?), I'll make 20 out of it ... 'running away velocity'

I found a few excel sheets to calculate, but I was more looking for a working system, which were presented here. But I found no details (so copy&paste won't work  )
 
The raw parameters are clear, I think....Motor size 540, rpm per V ~ 500-700 (I plan 9.9V)  35-40mm prop 3-4 blade. For a 40mm prop there's probably just 1mm left and right. Therefore I'll first build the side keels and then check the space again.  Accu I could use 6.6V, ),9V (2S,3S LiFePo) or 7.2V NiMH, fortunately I have already two similar LiFePo controlers in other boats, that way I could check early if the final chosen configuration may be too strong for 9.9V and still have the option to try it with 7.2V ..... actually it's "xxxxx" what I write, the controllers work for LiFePo and NiMH (some auto control down when not enough power left etc. functions) ... nevertheless, I can use the ones I have for trials.

When I refurbished my first boat and exchanged a drive shaft with a slightly flexible coupling and not 100% aligned motor-prop system with an almost rigid motor-mount-drive-shaft-system (a coupling with hard rubber) the same motor+prop gave a slight better velocity and almost no noise (well, no extra noise).That kind I will install here too ([url=https://www.bauer-modelle.com/epages/Bauer_Uwe46269592.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/Bauer_Uwe46269592/Categories/"Schiffsantriebe%2C Spezial- und Wellenantriebe"/Wellenantrieb/"Gundert starre Antriebsanlagen"/gleitgelagert]Gundert starre Welle by Bauer Modelbau[/url], in Germany, sorry -- they cut any usefull length). I'm not 100% sure from all the photos I looked at, but I think the tube around the shaft (Stevenrohr in german) is going outsite the hull to the holder (right before the prop).  There is no free shaft in the space between hull and holder !?
At the end one can calculate a lot, the right velocity is the one which fit's best for the eyes. 

Anyways, waiting for the weekend. First a stand and correct/clear the upper rim of the hull.Have fun,Joerg

Hi,
wow, some orders take 2 weeks and other 3day incl. delivery....  My wife looked out od the window: " There are big packets coming for you..."
Me: "Ok, I'll take over cooking today..."

Well, several things fo a different project arrived, most material I plan to use for Deck and more from the Tyne. 3 different profiles for making the sprayrail, a pot of yellow --maybe too yellow --, both motors and both props, they seem a bit too small. Nevertheless, after driving tests I can always replace them.

Yesterday I had the luck for some laser cutting.  So I made up all upper parts of the ribs (spanten in german) to get the bow of the deck. Also the side keels were printed twice and in parts, as they were longer that the cutarea. They wer cut in 2mm and 1mm PS material (leftover).  In the bow I've affed up several pieces to make the front lower kel part rigid to get both the holes for fastening the boat in the Boathouse (photo will follow later). Later that part will be finally filled with long time (60min) epoxy.

Slow progress ... 

Attached photos:
1. Laser cut stuff, unfortunately one has to get rid of the black burnt material... filthy job.



2. Some parts so far




3: One of the lifeboat-man resin printed (bought the stl files) and the yellow...




Have fun and a nice wekend,
Joerg

Hi,
got a bit progress over the weekend. 
 Both sliding and propeller protection keels are glued with UHU-Allplast, including 3 brass sticks on each side glued with superglue.  It still need thin stripes of ps (1-1.5mm) to fill geaps and enlarge the contact surface.

Then I made a stand for the building time (later the boat will stay in the boathouse). It may look a bit high and quite long but as you can see, my  space is limited and this larger stand covers the hull (and later the railing too) against, let's simply call it 'the yard'...

A few more people werde printed in resin and I made a first attemt for a window, the outher frame is 0.5mm thick and the screws are just 0.2mm. Printed absolutely flat, so I would say, I found my parameters for the windows. Just have to make the up in FreeCAD ...
This week the propeller shaft's etc. will arrive.

Best regards,Joerg

Attached photos:
1: The front keel is filled with various PS stripes. 





2: Sliding keels glued



4. resin printed window (26mmx26mm somehow...)

photo 3.: the large stand

Hi,
reading, reading, reading + searching for photos....Just found out that my window example misses a tiny layer ....

I've buit the trim plates this weekend.  First I thought of using brass but then I found some leftover hinges in one of my boxes. The fit very well in size.
The hull lower stern was cut and I build a kind of 'step' for the trim plates. These are made of 1mm PS + 0.75mm PS with cutout for the hinges and hnges glued + 0.5mm PS to habe a smooth surface. In the hinge aread I drilled two holes and glued a stick of PS inside. That should prevent the hinge part for slipping (even though they are glued).  The hinge axes stay outside and the plates werde stick through openings to the inside. There they are screwed to a piece of wood.  As long as the 'hydraulic' parts are not final they remain just screwed. Later they will be glued with 2K epoxy and the whole inset will be sealed with 2K epoxy (60min).

1. wide movenment range



2. hinges and PS sticks





3. fromthe inside




The first upper frame also has been glued. A second one, will come soon and then I can fine-cut the upper stern.


Best,
Joerg

I'm impressed with your printed parts that's technology that's coming to replace a  lot of hard work in this hobby.

Swab wrote:

I'm impressed with your printed parts that's technology that's coming to replace a  lot of hard work in this hobby.

Hi,
I try to use the printers as tools. Of course somthing like windows and screws help a lot and there will be more parts for the tyne.  But I can also use my fingers as for the trim plates (which could have been printed too, including a 'bag' for the hinge plates. But my fingers mortoric skills are a bit too raw for such tiny things.

This printers can help replacing a lot of repeating 'hard work' like the windows. But you still have to sketch them, construct them and find the optimal or at least some working parameters for the print.
It shifts some work from the workbench to the desk.  (actually the opposite to why I started modelling boats)

Best,
Joerg

Hi,
before aranging anything on the stern I've added a second deckbow (raw in the position of frame A), on the two I've fitted a deckplate reaching the stern. Then it was easy to cut the hull top rim of the stern.  Overall height in the center from bottom to top awas about 129,5 mm, very close to the plan.



J

OK,
now I'm in the middle of the trim plates construction.   
First the safety grid for the hydraulics/mechanics of the trim plates was made, 1.5mm brass and normal soldering.
It's a bit thicker than scale, first I haven't had any 1.3mm rod flying around and the close to sclae size 1mm is simply to thin. Why? Because I'm really bad in driving boats backwards.




I've drilled holes into the stern an placed them, but i guess at the end I have to correct a bit. It's just for the developement of a working trim plates system.



For that I placed two pieces of bowden cable (Bowdenzug in german) and mounted them to the plates. In general this can work.  If I mount them inside the hull on a rigid plate, I could move the trim plates up and down by movin the plate up and down.  Well, so far for today, Still have to think about that.



Best regards and have a nice weekend after the storms (here it's soon reaching it's maximum),
Joerg

Hi,
today I started to align motors and shafts. I wanted to mount both rudder. Which at least were kind of finalized for mounting. And then my wife said she'll leave for a coffee afternoon to a friend.

Well.... one could ...

So I picked up tools, alu-profiles from the attic, searched for som plywood plate, found a perfect one and brought everything down to our 'dining' table. I started the computer opened side views of boathouse and boat started to measure, 12deg slipway angle....  length and broadth... from google earth 19mx7.9m without the fron extension - roughly .... the boathouse/transport-box should not be longer than 1m - that fits. For the width I had 2 photos wher I used the width of the boat to guess the size of the boathouse... of course with different results but not so far away from goole earth. And then I looked at the plywood... too a ruler and... 38cm, great, plus 2x 0.6mm for construction profiles and something for the walls - fits too. So I don't have to saw too much.
Then ... saw alu profiles .... drill holes ... mount the profiles .... poop, the 'other starboard' ... dismount and mout again ...

finally after roughly 4 hrs:  The battlefield!



a bit of hoovering -- no one should go bare foot tonight....
and  side view (the motor shaft mount help is still on)




almost can't wait to go to the pond!



Have a nice sunday, I think I have to make a larger hoovering session tomorrow.
Best,
Joerg

Joerg are you basing this on a real slipway? I'd love to see photos if you have any.

Hi Swab,
I can't post any photos as I own none. If you dig in the facebook page of the Douglas station and look for some other web based material, you can see some details, also from the inside.

If you follow the links on this public page:

https://services.gov.im/planningapplication/services/planning/planningapplicationdetails.iom?ApplicationReferenceNumber=16/00728/B

you can find the top and side view of the old boathouse in 1/150 scale.

I found this plan 2 days AFTER I have built the basic construct of the boathouse

Fortunately the length and height are very close just the width is about 3cm too wide. Usually no problem, but as I lack storage space I will change this.

The slipway inside the house is on concrete (or cement), outside it's a nice construct which I already have a plan in mind how to set this up. I need about 60 identical cross brasses (cross struts? german: querstrebe). Fortunately I'll get this done by laser cutting, just 3-5 at a time but after a while that should be done.  But for that I need the final construct which I don't have yet (every hole and kink or whatever needs to be on the sketch, otherwise I later have to change 60 pieces by hand. I'll try to draw it in Freecad or Blender and I will also show it here when it's done (the drawing). 

Anyways, it will be based on the real boathouse and slipway of the RNLI Douglas station (from the Tyne era), it will not be superscale, as it has to be also the transport box and it needs to be easy to built up at the pond/sea/pool.

Best,
Joerg

I've sat in the area of Douglas RNLI station eating fish & chips so th the wife while the TT races are on strange coincidence a Man in Germany is building a version to launch a model boat down

Hi Swab,
yeah these funny coincidences...
Until xmas I had no idea that I'll build something like that. I've made a basic hull of an old german lifeboat, sent it to a forum-friend in bavaria to make epoxy/fiberglass hulls from it and wanted to build that ship. That guy is a great fan of the older rnli lifeboats, just has built the Solomon Browne and planned a slipway....  so... finally he had a spare hull of a tyne class boat + plans in 1:20 scale (well, 1:19 but who cares), my favorite. But just the tyne alone.... the whole setup is such a story... and it's a lot of work., during that time I won't manage any other bigger ship (tactics for a better home )

I even checked how much a flight(s) will cost ....  who knows, one day I may sit there, of course with fish and chips.

The work is progressing, a former colleague would have said "I'm slow but systematic" .... well I'm not really systematic, more 'creative' 

I hope sundy night there will be an update on the build.
Best,
joerg

Hi,
so, ...

I've made my sketches from the plans and compared it to photos... well ... details are different, especially the windows. After I bought some large sheat of 4mm plywood, I could cut the sides of the house.

The small extension with the doors needed to be set up, therefore the front supports had to be shiftet a bit back and some extension had to be made.

Then I wanted to cut out the openings for the windows. Tricky part, as plan, my real size and photos differ a lot. Finally I found my places and becaus the row of windows in the upper part were grouped 3+3 because of the middle support of the sides, I also had to move these 0.5cm ... 

After I had sketches for the windows I had to cut them out. Startet with a proxxon drill and a thin circular saw .... straight lines??? ...
Today I found, that I have a proxxon jigsaw too (the cheaper one, got it together with other stuff from ebay and didn't use it since then).
That at least went better although wood and straight cuts and me don't really fit together....

I hope a thin frame from the outside will cover most of the odd cuts.

The windows I've set up with Freecad and printed them in PLA.  I'm pretty sure, net week I'll find a high resolution image of these windows

A piece of acrylic (or whatever) glas together with the inner frame will be glued from the inside to all single opening far later.

The photos:

side view (+ a box for a springer tug 'push-barge'.)

3. larger window, with

inspection from the inside



row of smaller windows, the will be connected by tiny 0.5mm stripes of PS later



It's still developement in progress...

Best, Joerg

Hi all,
after the halfway ugly looking wooden part I've played a bit with CAD today (I'm still a beginner). The slipway will have many repeating elements therefore having a 3D sketch to test ideas may help a lot.  It's far from ready but I think the sketch already looks quite nice and shows that even a complicated looking slipway as the Douglas one can be buit relatively easy and basic to be build (once the sketch is ready, I hope).



There will be a strong connection over the width by a flatband of aluminum on 3 places. Connecting or dap filling plates are still missing. As I wrote, it's just a first setup.

Have a nice week,
Joerg

Hi All,
the idea developed a bit further and I got the chance to get a round of laser cut (took the laser about 2.5hrs). With the cross members ('Querträger') and the alu U-profiles I could play a little and fast found the problem how to get the cross members upright in the U-profile with 12deg gradient.  I found an easy solution: printing two half blocks each with a gradient of 12deg on on site. So the 'ends' of the cross members are always perpendicular to the U-profile upper surface. That way any distance part can be just cut straight.
Same idea for the left-right connectors (not yet done) and luckily quite fast with 3D (well fast work for me but printing took a few hours).

Finally I assembled a test part and  I'm quite happy with that. Next would be to arrange connecting plates etc.The white stuff are Teflon stripes, rolls are missing.

1. Laser cut delivery



2. 3D printed parts


3. the slipway idea as it is now


Best,Joerg

two more images with more details:

This gets better as it goes on

Hi,
I had a bike puzzle over the weekend. It's somehow like model boat building. For changing tires it takes 20min and for just mounting some tiny stuff it takes hours.... (first you have to find the parts... then to understand them .... and then fit them to your kind of bike as they were built for something else...)

Nevertheless I found some time for the boathouse. I've decided earlier to fake the 'trapezoidal sheet metal' outside walls by using plywood and wooden strips....
So first cut 1m strips to 24cm long parts, finally 160 were needed, cutting until the bursa ('Schleimbeutel') in the shoulder were glowing.




Then glue them onto the sidewalls, parallel! -- for that I 3d-printed two masks which fiitted 4 strips each. One for the upper part and one for the lower. In addition I marked the playwood with vertical lines to find out early enough if I'm running out of course.


(the white 3D-printed masks on the left)

It worked, always glued three in one go, the 4th was the overlap with the group before.  Each day 80 pieces, took roughly 2 hrs every day.




I hope I'll find sime time for the boat again next week.

Have a nice week,
Joerg

Hi,
not so many news on the boat, just a bit fiddeling. Weather was too nice, so I stayed downstairs. Anyways, both long sides of the boathouse are mounted now. Whereas one of them stays always mounted, the other has the option to take it off quite fast, for exhibitions or shows (once the interior of the boathouse will be ready... ...2030...).



For the slipway I got some metal grid and rough ideas to fill the gaps. From this trial I will later move the position of the cutouts in the cross member ('Querträger') a bit deeper and add a hole for a threaded rod on the left side, the U-profile will cover that as on the right side. All small holders on the threaded rods will get slightly new dimensions.
The stair plate on the left will move further to the middle and the styrodur pieces on top of the center gaps will later be replaced by something else to imitate cement.
At the moment I'm waiting for the second set of cross members and printing of the small holders on the threaded rods is running.




For now, have a nice week,
Joerg

This is clever work I'm also impressed you've managed to do it with an Ikea pencil i can't keep a point on them!

Hi,
first: Ikea pencils have the big advantage that they are short (and for free).

So, the boathouse got a bit color on the outside, still just the left and right side. Window frames have been designed in CAD, printed from PLA and painted. As window glass I use a 0.5mm PETG plate, it's much easier to cut than acrylic or plexi-glass. Once they are assembled and mounted I'll come up with the photos and process description.

After finishing and repairing other projects for a meeting I started the first part of the slipway.
Basically it was done as the test before, just with different U-profiles at the sides and thus all small holders on each side of the holes in the cross members ('Querträger') had to be slighly changed and reprinted.   And ist's kind of a final mount.

First the Metal grid was folded at the ends, so that one could mount two of them through the opening in the cross member:



This gave a distance of 3.5cm between two cross members. For 5 threaded rods it's cutting 5 of them per cross member.


An awfull amount of work cutting them without a machine.



So on the next image several steps can be found side by side:





First the cross members (white) needed to be cleaned from the laser burn on the cut surfaces.... thats just friday afternoon to evening for 20 of them ...
The small holders on each side of the holes in the cross members were glued with Uhu Allplast and fixed with screws. After a while srews were dismounted and the holes were redrilled to get rid of leftover glue.

Then a cross member was pushed onto 5 threaded rods then 5 distant rods followed and so on, 20 times. Printing tome for the red part per cross member 1hr6min.

 
That took the whole weekend and a few hours the last days.

Finally the first 80cm part was done, 80cm because they will fit beneath the bouthouse floor.



Here you can see from the side how the small red block manage to get the cross members upright whil the slipway has a 12deg gradient.
J

well, it looks already great, even though a lot of things are still missing.
 

While glueing the red blocks the side ones were already fittet to the U profiles. It was the an easy step to mount the outer U profiles:



Still 1,4m to go .....  

Anyways, I now have a part which I can fidlle with the mounting to the boathouse for slip and for transport as well as building the flip mechanism for the second part.

The middel profile I'll hopefull build the next weekend.
Have fun,
Joerg

That's going to look impressive when it's assembled where are you going to store it?

Hi Swab,
storage will be easy, 80cm+roughly 60cm folded underneath the boathouse and if needed two 50cm pieces in an euro-norm box (60x40cm).
Just the connections and stand will be tricky.
J

Hi,
250 screws later (or so) ...

The slipway part I got also the inner profile, the main slide profile mounted. It's not directly conneted to the polystyrol parts. Insted I have horizontal U-profilels on 3 positions connection the outer and inner alu profiles.



 
These later will be used for a stand or mounting the slipway to the ground. For that I've printed spacers with 12deg gradient on one side, so the U-Profiles will be parallel to the ground.

The inner profile, got some openings (many holes drilled and then used a file (?) to make it rectangular. Each opening got a cylindrical roll mounted, roughly as on the original slipway. To get better sliding a 3mm teflon (PTFE) piece was mounted on both sides and on the bottome between the rolls (nor really needed but as part II will have no rolls it looks similar).  Finally I put the hull onto the slipway and maked the position and width of the slide plates for the side keels. These were of 2mm thick teflon stripes. Screwed into the spacers (red) on the threaded rod. These were printed with 80% filling so that the M1 'sheet metal screws' found grip. 











So for now part I of the slipway is finished. The metal grid fillings and plates are still missing, but there is no time left for them now.


It's just 80cm short and the 4 second movie has a slipway with less than 12deg gradien, but even the empty hull with just the motors in slides down.












Have a nice sunday,
Joerg

Looking good Joerg. 

Barrie

You're braver than me Joerg I'm looking forward to seeing this launch.

Swab wrote:

You're braver than me Joerg I'm looking forward to seeing this launch.

Well, maybe I'm just 'certified insane'

Launch with 2/3 of the slipway is planned for september 3rd, but still lacking tons of deatails on the boat then.

Hi,

got a week vakation. Building models can be nice, but developing the stuff can be pretty hard.

No idea how many hole were drilled twice and how often ideas were 'deleted', turned, bent etc.

I have no power left for a long detailed description but in short:
Changes on teh boathouse: The upright profiles got extended about 4cm, still fits on top of the closet, and now I have a bit more space to pack the folded slipway.

I added a plywood plate to get the slipway in and out easier.

Slipway folding mechanism: Used simple flat connection angle (steel), cut one 'arm'/side short. Pot them on top of each other, drilled a 4mm hole through them. Bent on of them 'twiece, so that the can work without jamming. (see photo 3) In addition I put a square profile in the U-Profiles for better stability.

 Slipway Klappmechanismus: Gaaaanz einfach, zwei Flachwinkeleisen, eine Seite arg gekürzt, übereinandergelegt und am gekürzten Teil ein 4mm Loch. Dann einen der Winkel hin+her+gebogen, so dass die gekürzte Seite genug absteht um das andere Teil dahinterzubekommen, ohne das es klemmt.   Zur Verstärkung wird nach dem Aufklappen noch ein Vierkant in das Profil eingeschraubt.
A standsystem is still missing and the Tyne is still open at the keel end.
The photos show:1. packed boathouse and slipway2. unpacked3. simple foliding mechanism4. mounted slipway
And two films:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0BqGKqpFGVY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bFO9232sSlk
Works without weight in the boat!OK, I'm donen now, need to rest 
Best,Joerg

Hi,

got a week vakation. Building models can be nice, but developing the stuff can be pretty hard.

No idea how many hole were drilled twice and how often ideas were 'deleted', turned, bent etc.

I have no power left for a long detailed description but in short:
Changes on teh boathouse: The upright profiles got extended about 4cm, still fits on top of the closet, and now I have a bit more space to pack the folded slipway.

I added a plywood plate to get the slipway in and out easier.

Slipway folding mechanism: Used simple flat connection angle (steel), cut one 'arm'/side short. Pot them on top of each other, drilled a 4mm hole through them. Bent on of them 'twice, so that the can work without jamming. (see photo 3) In addition I put a square profile in the U-Profiles for better stability.

A standsystem is still missing and the Tyne is still open at the keel end.

The photos show:
1. packed boathouse and slipway


2. unpacked


3. simple foliding mechanism



4. mounted slipway (see next post)


And two films:




Works without weight in the boat!
OK, I'm donen now, need to rest 
Best,
Joerg

4. mounted slipway (see next post)

Hi,
motor, controller and accu are just put in for the test, they are not optized.

My Tyne on the slipway into the water, once it's redy it can be great.... unfortunately it's still a long way to go



best, Joerg

This would generate great interest at a regatta, it's got a good bow wave as it hits the water.

Yeah, still no sprayrail, not enough weight and the slipway can be 50-80cm longer at the end, that will be great. I can't wait but it will take a year, at least.
J

Hi,
I'm a bit lazy with progress reports. Family, work and the usual stuff, so I managed the 'other' forum and gave up aafter that. 

Not so much has happened, but a few things happened before the movie further up.

For mounting the shaft system, I used two masks, one inside (which stayed) and on on the outside.



The rudder system is made of 3mm inside brass tubes, stabilized with a wooden block (not the one in the image abobe, the brass is also not yet mounted there).
As the rudder has only 2mm brass sticks the will go into a bowden system tubewhich exatly fitted into the 3mm brass tube. This way I have the option to make stronger rudders if needed.

For the slipway and motor test the trim plate system (not final) was taken off and the holes were filled with glue.




The back keel end was made out of 6 2-1,5mm glued polystyren plates (still not final), these were glued into the hull then I filled 60min epoxy on it and on the similar ps-plate filling in the bow. This 60min epoxy finds every little crack rip and fills it. Finally 1h bathtub test and the slipway test had an inside dry boat a s a result.

Many more small things but they will show up when I go on with the interior of the hull.
J

Well, and now to the actual updates:
first I had a set of cut 1mm deckbows. Got another set of 1.5mm, they were glued into the hull with 1mm space left to the upper rim. Then a 4mm square profile was glued on the side of the hull between them.
Finally I made some connectors between the deckbows.


on it's way .....

Then I cut the deck from 1mm PS and used the plan for the gaps below the deckhouse parts.



Not bad at all, I think. The deck ist not glued yet, but I'm quite happy with it so far.

J

and the last update from this week:

my colleague who can do the laser cutting soon leaver for holiday, and then me, so until late august no chance to cut. Therefore I made a quick sketch (from the plan) of the deckhouse parts. They were often not symmetric!



No time, maybe different polystyrene? -- the cut had more burn dirt than usual.







I made a stabilyzing construction for the inside and used revell liquid (contacta professionell) as glue. Which, this time, worked much better than UHU Allplast.


After a while I checked the deckhouse and found the roof flat. The supports were too thin. So I put it roof down with the sides on some boxes, and then put a lot of that glue around the supports added som aluminum blocks as weight in the middle and the next morning, the roof of the deckhouse wasn't flat anymore. MAy 1mm to much bow, but who cares.










Still a lot to do, but it could have been worse.  (the roof was cut too braod so that it fit's in any case)


Have a nice weekend.
Joerg

Hi, well, at home is a bit 'drama' at the moment, not the time to do special things more jumping from one part to the other without finishing one.
Nevertheless, still kind of progress.

I started with a part of the windows set, unfortunately the plan is wrong and several photos show, that on each side of the deckhouse there are 4 different windows.... well ... what to say, ther sure is a reason for that but building rougly 40 boats there would be reasons enough to build it with only 2 different shapes.

I also struggled with freecad a bit and it crashed while doing the non-rectangle window frames. I gave up for now, too much computing already, but the square and rectangular ones were deeloped and printed. The screws have a height of about 0.06mm. Which can be seen on the boat, I show a testprint with and without colour on it earlier.



The next were printed staying horizonal (3-4mm above ground), that also worked.

Here are two images which show earlier build time:
The Deck framework:


and the filled back end of the main keel:


...

...
I had some leftover (well bought two kinds used only one) bumper gum in D shape, 6mm height and 5mm weight. Could work that way. From the plan it should be 7x6mm ... hard to find.



on the next you can also see the rudder construction from top



.....

... finally I've found two simila ventilators for motor cooling. Made an s-like support to glue into the open keel.   Not glued because I still need some round cooling fin part to stick on the motors.



Next I mounted a platfporm for the 9.9V 3S LiFePO power source. Just sticked with 4 dots of UHU-Allplast, once all electronics is selected and there it will be glued with epoxy.



on top of it, for now, the box with the sabertooth 12A dual controller:



That's it for now, I hopa I manage a few additions to the deckhouse.


Have a nice sunday,
Joerg

I'm glad I saw your deck framing its given me an idea for a possible future build it this hobby doesn't bankrupt me. You planning on printing more details Joerg?

Swab wrote:

I'm glad I saw your deck framing its given me an idea for a possible future build it this hobby doesn't bankrupt me. You planning on printing more details Joerg?

Hi Swab,
I'm planning more Details, but not superscale. The windows of the plan are wrong and the photos are not exact shot with object parallel to camera.

I'm guessing a lot, on the other hand in 1:19 guessing and averaging is much easier than in 1:12 scale.

Yeah bankrupt, if you buy everything, especially if you buy ready 3D you can almost buy a 1:1 ship at the end of course a smaller type but...
on the other hand, If you got the time paid you'll sit on the creation...

btw, the deck framing idea came from the article of 1986, and following builts. I just was too lazy to make new deck frames so I took the originals and moved them a little. Interestingly the bow works good with the 1mm polystyrene deck but made problems when doing the roof of the deckhouse.
Still need to do some extensions on the side of the hull, just in case someone runs into my boat. But first electronics and inner content, then I see where I find space for these.
have fun,
Joerg

Hi,
it's just hot outside...


ok, this was on the sunny side, just sun from aside. Must have been even higher when direct in the sun...

Anyways, on our terrace its 36,x degC in the shadow. Hamburg airport juts reached 37.7 C and still has 3hrs left to rise.... looks like the beat the oveall record of 37,7C... in the city center it's 40deg by now, but for the official counting concrete floor etc. doesn't count.

Nevertheless, no good weather to put PLA prints on the terrace at the moment

I've printed most of the windows over the last days, resin, they got some primer sprayed on it yesterday, that stuff was dried as it reached the surface (almost).

There are still some mistakes in the inner corners of some frames and the front ones have to be resized (there is a difference between boat and plan which I try to get over).



Yeah, speaking of the plan.... when doing the cutsketch for the laser I did it in a rush, now I wanted to build the roofwindow.... f*** .... there is none... so I used the cutout part and glued it back to the roof.  Still needs a fine sanding but probably tomorrow when it's colder.



Well, tomorow temperatures should get back to normality...

Best,
Joerg

I've packed it in for a while I can't work when it's too hot Britain's had it easy compared with Europe 2 days of 40 degrees plus and I'm ready to move to Norway!  I'm impressed with your window frames the rivet detail sets them off.

Hi Swab,
Norway ... if you don't need alcohol and have money enough  
The window screws in 1:20 are ok, sure a pain to build them but they just need to be seen, nothing more.  They even have a cut inside, for the screwdriver  
J