Josie Olsen

I know Damien It's just a knack I have, uncanny isn't.
Harmless I hope you seem to have more than your fair share of dangerous things in the land of OZ.

Yes we do Brian a couple of days ago I took the bug spray to the metal fences as Huntsman spider frequent them in summer then I found some 40mm black spiders inhabiting my storage shed they copped Raid surface spray as well.

Looking real good Damien

Thanks Paul 

Well the best laid plans of mice and men often don't work the pulleys I made yesterday didn't allow sufficient rudder movement I made a pair of 6mm od pulleys  with the same negative result Have settled on 19mm aluminium  pulley drilled 3mm for rudder yet to be drilled and tapped for retaining grub screw and cord retainer screw.
The pic shows the two sets of pulleys and the new rudder pulley.

Darn and blast it need make another of the aluminium pulleys had a whooops moment and broke the 3mm tap while tapping the thread capture screw hole.

Damien

I think you need to take a few days off to allow the gremlins to get out of your workshop

Barrie

Perhaps Barrie a shame to waste a few cooler days though.

Perhaps you need a little stress relief therapy, Damien.
Maybe your alternative hobby! 
Airbrushing bugs & spiders on your fence that sounds a good sport to me brings out your competitive side.

  Brian.

Lesson learned don't buy aluminium rod on ebay from China.
While drilling the new hole for the cord retaining screw I struck a hard patch the ally coming out on the drill bit was a darker colour and even with the lard/kerosene cutting oil the 2.5mm drill broke and the finished one from yesterday didn't leave clearance for the aft cabin sides.
The next generation is smaller diameter and much shorter than the first tries as it was a leftover 25mm bit of Aussie stock, I'll also use a smaller dia. cord.

Have been pondering and stressing over the superstructure construction from plan and pictures of models of Josie it has me stumped on how to get upper decks curved fore/aft and port/starboard have decided on fore-aft only.
Next hassle was the aft cabin I cut a 40mm piece 1.5mm x 75mm balsa using 3 fingers bent it to the curve in the rear deck planking and while holding it vertical drew a line on the outside and thus cutting the curvature of the deck the rest was easy.

Aft cabin sides completed and with scrap balsa and a sacrificed bit of pencil made a little tool to mark correct height along hull curvature.

 

Coming along a nicely now Damien. 

Thanks Paul. 

loving every minute of it.......a very unusual build with some great skills overcoming problems.........keeps the brain healthy.

look forward to seeing it sail.

neil.

Having drawn the line - how are you going to cut along it? Cutting balsa across the grain isn't easy even when its flat on the cutting board.

Barrie

The mind ponders!!!!! 
The careful use of a 25mm saw blade in the dremel to within 2mm of the line, then sanding with an emery board such as this.

   

Barrie the 25mm fine saw blade  was generally fine, trimming done 2 minor oop's, a little plaster mixed in balsa glue will fix them or perhaps balsa dust in balsa glue 6mm x 1.5mm balsa reinforcing super glued to the upper inside edge.





The 1.5mm recycled paper card bulkhead had a piece of deck planking glued along top edge prior to cutting access opening for hex key access for rudder pulley screw.

On fitting the wheels in place I discovered they were flush with the outer edge of the deck problem being the cabin/wheel covers are supposed to sit on the deck edge.



The side supports I'd already fitted were removed and new 5mm x 6mm strips were cut the new curve caused too much stress and broke on the  first attempt subsequently they were soaked  in water for 15 minutes no problems after that.



They'll have to be sanded down somewhat or there will be to much wheel clearance.





Deck curve a bit wider though still a nice curve.

Made a start on the paddle boxes.

Looking good Damien

Thanks Paul.

GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR I hope the tirade of abuse I hurled at myself didn't reach anyone here after I accidentally knocked Josie of her stand to the floor putting a dent and a hole in her bottom.



Whilst fixing her with auto filler I found another not so easy to fix problem whilst fitting the wheel shrouds a thick run of super glue ran down the hull side, this second pic shows the remainder not so easy tom get at run.

Fixed, wet sanded the filler and the super glue looking good again.

 

The inside of the filled hull hole.



Decided on some 50mm glass tape with polyester resin for the inside.



Mid deck support rails in place with two supports in place two to come.

I'm glad to see you're over that little hiccup Damien and that you are making good progress

Outer skin on level one.

Lesson learned DO NOT trim 1.5mm ply with a 6mm sanding tube in your Dremel unless you have a really steady hand which I don't.

Glued some .6mm ply x 10mm high behind the paddle boxes and 3 applications of filler followed sanding each time. A close look at these pic's shows they came out OK.

The framework to keep the deck bow-stern curve was made and pinned 6mm above the first level to ensure this removable section was not glued in place.



Top side with the cabin shape drawn and the engine gallows clearance hole cut.

this is one very beautiful build Damien, that looks superb. hope to see a video of it once built.

neil.

That's good to see - now we've got two of you modelling again.

Barrie

Awww shucks thanks guys

I should have shown how I made the support cradle for the first of this mid deck being curved as it is.

Note this was done prior to cutting the gallows access hole in the deck.

I cut some 2mm cardboard sheet about 100mm high  and joined 2 and a bit strips end to end and and added anti bend strip of 6mm sq balsa length wise, next was masking tape in 5 places each side around the deck to hold it inplace on the hull.
Holding this card length wise and upright on the hull centre line and using the shorter of the 2 pencil blocks at 90deg marked the hull curve.
Using a sturdy knife to cut to the line.

After the first cut I used the second pencil block made at 35mm base to centre pf pencil tip the height of the cabin sides and  on a flat surface rolling the curved edge whilst moving the pencil block along at the same time.
The result was transferred to 6mm balsa with 6mm sq cross braces.

Got the cabin base templates cut and glued in place.



The pencil lines indicate where wood was removed to allow for cabin side thickness.



 

Cabin front in place pencil line 35mm cabin height.



Deck stiffener strip from planking strip.



From the underside In hind sight I should have put some masking tape on the hull prior to gluing to give clearance for the paint will have some sanding to do prior to painting. Another Oh darn moment.

The LOA is 810mm and the beam across the paddle boxes is 240mm.

Stern section of upper cabin cut from 75mm wide x 2.5mm balsa glued on edges after glue dried soaked in baking pan of water for 30mins after which it curved nicely around the former.



My 35mm line marker put to work again.

You have more success with balsa than I do Damien. It always cracks for me when I try to bend it  I much prefer working with plasticard.

Barrie

Thanks Barrie,

On first try one of the joints was on the apex of the curve and the joint broke before I got half way round the curve, CA glued it again and put the joints either side of the apex and starting from apex CA'd 10mm each side at a time holding with fingers a tad slow but gives a good joint.

Cabin sides added again 2.5mm thick, just a little bit of filler was needed.

Whilst putting the cabin sides in place I neglected to tape the deck down I found today the deck was about 3mm above the top of the lower deck cabin sides.

I solved it simply  with a 19mm snap off knife, I sliced a deck level under cabin sides for around 50mm and with a thin wedge of balsa inserted it until the deck sat in place nicely some filler will finish it off.

Slow going winter arrived a month early already had -1.5 c or 34.7F overnight twice so far best we got today was 11.4c or 52.52F.

Have the cabin sides trimmed to shape and upper deck drawn on ply ready to cut tomorrow if weather is accommodating.

 

this build fascinates me........such a complicated ship but so intriguing with all the complex shapes..i just love it..........don't say much but really am amazed at the complexity of it. superb Damien.love it.

neil

I agree all the shapes are a nightmare. 

Had to re trace the upper deck as I hadn't left quite enough room for errors on the port side to edge of ply.
Then cut it with a knife.

Upper deck glued in place still some trimming needed.

The best laid plans of mice and men can still go awry even after checking the upper deck alignment 3 times, I should have checked it after putting the weights in place as  the stern of the upper deck was 6mm off centre when I went to start trimming it and spent 15 minutes carefully removing said deck with a knife.

Thankfully balsa glue is easier to remove than superglue. 
And it's now correct.

Pattern for paddle boxes drawn while watching deep space 9 tonight.

While pondering on why didn't I trace and cut the upper deck when the mid deck was finished and before the cabin was glued upon it, I came up with a spring loaded pencil mounted on a t-piece where the tongue sits upon the lower deck and the pencil draws on the underside of the upper deck.
som 6mm scrap balsa, some scrap brass tube a small compression spring.

With only 35mm between decks it started with a daunting challenge the hardest parts were  the pencils, they needed to be only 18mm long with a short angle to thwart excess wobble in the brass tube.
The other challenge was the placement of the brass tube so that the pencil point was exactly above the above the lower deck line.

Side on with the pencil beside it.





Showing just how little room there is tween decks.



And finally the pencil attempts  before getting angle right after chucking in in my drill they were sanded to correct diameter to suit tube.

Today I thought I'd do something different, the wooden mast 120mm x 4mm at base and 2mm at top starting with 6mm dowel with 10mm extra each end.
With 1mm centre drill in my lathe I made a pilot hole for the live centre in the lathe put the dowel in the lathe and with 2 - 30mm wide finger nail boards went to work I had to frequently clean the nail boards with a brass wire brush as they clogged up quickly.

2 pic's