Josie Olsen

  proper scratch built stuff Damien

Thanks Paul.

As the eyelet rides on a 3mm thread I added 3mm i/d tube which will be cut so it sits midway between the 2 drive gears.



First primer on engine parts.

And the bow planking.

Its good to see this progressing again Damien.

Barrie

The start of something good there Damien   I love the look of nicely planked decking

The planks will take some sanding the darker planks are .5mm taller than the lighter ones.

Bow planking completed next is sanding smooth and trimming to shape.



Wheel axle supports glued in place & Gallows assembly glued in place.

 

Cylinder and valve assembly together and primer'd.

 

And then it hit the fan and the air turned blue as I berated my self for not checking a third time when I placed steel blocks in place to hold the Gallows to the base whilst the epoxy dried the next pic shows the pencil line the Gallows should be aligned with.



The 4 paddle shaft bearing blocks were all I could salvage, a new template has been made for the gallows structure.

Start again tomorrow.

New gallows coming along nicely with the first one I made the angle template from 1/8" as the plan suggested this one I used 1" 25mm as seen in pic's

 





Cap strips in place and mounted on the base plate.



Wheel axle bearing blocks in place with short piece of 3mm silver steer shaft to hold them aligned.

Engine/drive assembly coming together nicely.

 Looking good Damien

Thanks Paul.

Brass centres for the drive gear wheels today's effort, 2 x 6mm x 25mm brass bolts chucked in lathe drilled 3mm through the centre for the axles the 2 nuts were cross drilled 2.5mm and tapped 3mm for grub screw to lock the to the axles, after cutting them to length with a 20mm dremel cutting disk the bolts were slit cross wise to the depth of the nuts to allow the grub screws to clamp the bolts to the axles.

 

as troutrunner says....great stuff......I am fascinated by this mechanism you are constructing..............look forward to seeing it all.

neil.

Drive wheels on their axles with the con-rod to the beam.

 

Cylinder/valve assembly glued in place on the gallows base.

Don't switch the sander on Damien!!!

Looking good though, can't wait to see it all moving..

Mark..

Have hit a snag the 3mm to 2mm coupler for motor to worm drive was a little over size on both diameters and the 2mm rod waved all over the place and jammed in it's bearing so I've had to order a 3mm to 3mm uni-joint and will turn a 3mm to 2mm i/d adapter bush to accommodate the 2mm shaft. 

This pic. Shows the alignment problem.

A change to longer bearing tapered one end to clear drive wheel,with oil hole in the centre, the bearing final position to be determined by the length of the uni-joint.



The alignment is almost spot on with little work for the uni-joint.

A motor change was also needed being salvaged a cordless drill was a bit slow with the worm drive at 50:1 output would have been 68rpm on the wheels  a speed 600 motor brings it to around 95rpm and this motor is no where as noisy as the other.

The deck planking looks good after sanding it will be somewhat darker after clear coating it.

 Neat work Damien, 

Thanks Paul. 

Forward bulwarks 2 pieces of 3mm x 12mm x 140mm  pinned together. I guessed the shape as the plan was obscure, the cut outs hand drawn  and shaped with a 6mm sander tube in the Dremel.

Gave the the beam a walk this morning with cordless drill turning the wheel axle without the valve and engine hooked up apologies the video on my finepix camera is pretty ordinary.

click on the pic.

progress, it moves ok, is it next for the motor to be fitted ?

Yes the motor is a work in progress finished the piston and valve gear this arvo.
I have a problem with the elcheapo plastic gears are not concentric and bind up the drive system when the nuts are put on the second gear.
I'll try to source some 60mm dia 50:1 brass worm or spur gear sets.

If anyone knows where to access these gears please let me know.
Apologies again for video hard to work camera and drill at the same time. 

Again click on the pic.

Hmmm I have some 1.5mm brass plate perhaps cutting 2 circles 6mm smaller in diameter and using 2mm bolts to pull the gears true may be the cheapest way out.

Damien

http://www.hpcgears.com/

This company has a wide range of gears - not sure if they ship to Oz.

Barrie

Thanks for the link Barrie.   

Spent an hour & a half looking at the site and not found anything suitable.
I've decided to cut 2 brass discs, one will replace one of the gear wheels the other will attach to the remaining reasonably true gear wheel.

Grrrr the brass to straighten the warped gear wheel worked however after bolting it all together the air turned blue as I discovered not only were they warped but also a good deal out of round as this pic shows.



When my blood pressure lowered and I calmed down to where rational thought process is achievable I decided on belt drive, incorporating the brass discs.  Using a pill bottle lid as a mold I cut 4 slots 90deg apart then filled it with car filler known as bog in Oz.

The splits in the lid were for easy removal of the pulley plug.

I usually rattle the mold up & down to remove air bubbles but had used a bit much hardener I got some bubbles I had to leave it sit a while as it got too hot to hold.

 

Filler was used to fill the screw thread around the periphery.
 


I usually rattle the mold up & down to remove air bubbles but had used a bit much hardener I got some bubbles I had to leave it sit awhile as it got too hot to hold.



Using some 1/4sq high speed steel I ground a cutter to use for the pulley groove.



More bubbles were exposed while turning and I filled using a different colour hardener.

  mechanno gears maybe next time, ebays always got a load on for grabs somewhere, and they do have some in larger sizes from the older stocks that pop up.

Worth a look Aron.

For now onwards the pulley of yesterday machined to 1/3 thickness the cutter ground to 3.5 mm wide and the new groove looks good, the brass 6mm bolt was soldered to the disc then used as jig for drilling 5 x 2mm holes for attaching to the filler pulley and 1 x 3mm hole, once done a 30mm hole saw was used to remove the centre to save weight.   





Note :- the angle of this shot makes it look out of round but it's spot on.

[URL=https://s250.photobucket.com/user/GardnerDG/media/Jose%20Olsen/DSCF4137_zpsikldjjoe.jpg.html]

I'll brush some polyester resin in the groove to abate wear.

Thought I wouldn't get out today being Oz mothers day but managed sneak out and got in a little time and made this motor pinion pulley, I'll hot weld the belt when I've decided where & how to mount the motor.

The cut lines on the pulley bearing block to clear the inside of the drive pulley.



with a 20mm saw blade in Dremel flex driveI cut to the lines had 2 minor  ooop's no swearing just glad no fingers in the way.



Cut and sanded to shape.



The nut on left brass wheel needs replacing as both grub screws stripped the threads otherwise it went together easily the connecting bolt between the 2 brass wheels is 3mm stainless steel with nyloc nuts inside and out of the left wheel left one turn loose to accommodate any slight wobble.

 

As can be seen in this video it runs smoothly.
Just click on pic.



Also got the bow bulwarks on today just need cap strips.

Looking good Damien - back on track I think.

Barrie

I sure hope so Barrie. 

Cap strip in place pinned whilst glue dries.

No pooter looks like the new power supply installed about 2 months ago has died will have it looked at tomorrow.

I  spent most of today in the shed lots done unable to process picks on SHMBO'd's pooter though taking pic's will post when I can.
Damien. 


All fixed Dud HDMI either cable or video card

Motor tray pivot.

 

Assembled.



Diameter of main pulley made larger as on 4 volts paddle speed shaft was 790 rpm.



Motor & Gallows assembly temporarily in place.

Coming along nicely Damien

Thanks Paul I'm happy with it now thinking on how to get the correct curvature of the superstructure port starboard & bow to stern.

Slowing down in line with the weather getting colder and awaiting parts from around the globe.

The 6mm brass lock nuts on the drive pulley and join plate were drilled and tapped 3mm and the 3mm long grub screws kept stripping the threads in the nuts whilst browsing ebay I came across these flexible joints and the brain gears started grinding lol. For $1.99Au you can't go wrong I chose 6mm to 6mm and bought 2.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/162052671794?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=461019172767&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

With a dremel + cutoff wheel I removed the flexi middle then cleaned them up and machined them down on my lathe they give the 2 discs fitted with 4mm grub screws as pic shows.

Those should work well, dad used the slimline with the rubber sleeve versions on a his runabout that only had 10mm of space for a coupler, the soild ones should get the job done for u no probs

Finally back at it weather is warming up got some planks on the stern deck using a 1mm recycled paper cardboard as a pattern I bought it on ebay and I plan to use on the cabin sides and roof as it's lighter than wood.

Good to see you've started work again Damien.

Barrie

Hard to concentrate with loud ringing in left ear seems tinnitus has replaced the sinus infection damned annoying guess I have to get used to it.

I've lived with that for more years than I care to remember. Its no so bad some of the time, but others it is very distracting.

Barrie