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 Aero-Naut Jenny

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PostSubject: Aero-Naut Jenny   Wed Jan 07, 2015 7:55 pm

Hey guys yup you guessed it another year another build!! whoo!!
 as most of you guys know i have been enjoying the aeronaut kits for quite some time, but this time i thought I'll be a tad more adventurous and go for one of the larger of the model ranges they produce, in this case The Jenny. Presently i haven't made any plans to mod the original kit although you all know me by now, my plans always change!

For those who are wondering about the repair progress to the classic i will post the final outcomes on that blog when the time comes, but that paint job will appear on this blog also as i will now do both models at the same time when it comes to painting (easier to kill 2 birds with 1 stone)

I will of course be finishing this model with my most epic of epoxy varnishes yet again just on a much grander scale

Well guess we had better get started, today just a sneeky peek at the kit its self.

The model will be a tad over 720mm making it suitable for a much beastier brushless motor.


This is how the model should look...


The Box


All The Parts


The Depron base


Transom and rear hatch ply bulkhead


Selection of strip wood and a 14" m5 prop shaft with plastic bushings ( expect to be replaced with a slimline m4 shaft with decent bushings)


Lazer cut ply keel and bulkhead sheet no.1


Bulkhead  Sheet no.2


Bulkhead Sheet no.3


Lazer Cut ply hull section


Mahogany Deck and cabin sections 


Mahogany veneered Ply Hull side sheet


DECK  Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy


Bag of fittings and some running gear parts


Bag of instructions, red leatherette and aluminium details/ hatch panels, windscreen etc.


Price = Bargain!!!

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PostSubject: Re: Aero-Naut Jenny   Wed Jan 14, 2015 8:59 pm

Always a good start.. delays!!

Although this one is of my own making to be honest decided to take a week out and redecorate my living room, and first thing I've added is an indoor work bench, no more cold workshop for me doing the fiddly bits. my main workshop is now converted into a tool shop with all the power tools now laid out in place allowing for easier construction of parts and general DIY uses.
Once my new 'shop' is all finished this project will start.


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PostSubject: Re: Aero-Naut Jenny   Wed Jan 14, 2015 9:52 pm

Look forward to the twin builds Work space and tool shop fun times ahead Aron. 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup
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PostSubject: Re: Aero-Naut Jenny   Fri Feb 06, 2015 10:51 pm

Time to get started...

oh enjoy the 4K HD Photos Very Happy

First thing first, lets start building up the frame work. 
I've have to make up the keel ahead of time, since they come in 6 parts, so this is the first step.
The bulk of the frame work is 3mm birch ply, however this kit contains a split keel for the prop shaft to run through, so to reinforce the sections its required to fit a further 2 sections of 2mm ply to the sides.

So lets start with the Bow Keel Section..

















Next up is part of the Stern section, there is a 3rd part to this fitted with the transom at a later stage which bumps the model up to its intended size.


The Stern reinforcement sections have pre lazer grooved slots either side and when fitted together in the correct way create a slot for the rudder tube, the space is currently hollow which will take the transom section, again at a later stage.
 
















And just to give you guys a bit of excitement got some nice toys to go in this...


14"JP stainless steel slimline prop shaft (you all know I love these shafts, but it took me nearly 6 weeks to locate one in stock anywhere!!!)






And the Monster to Power this beauty....
I have decided to get similar motor to the one fitted in my fathers runabout (check in the classic build log to see that) This ones vastly more efficient and will only require a 40amp esc, its an American Motor (not a cheap one made in china) a 1500KV Outrunner which i'm expecting i'll to run on 4S lipos for around 12.8V which should give me...


Wait for it...


 1500Kv x 12.8v =19,200rpm running an X40 prop..


However that being said... Sea trials will tell me when i get there how much power i need, i may only run this at 8.4v

since its a low amp motor i may be able to use my high discharge rated NHMI's, only time will tell.


which will give me...


 1500Kv x 8.4v = 12,600rpm on an X40








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PostSubject: Re: Aero-Naut Jenny   Fri Feb 06, 2015 11:44 pm

2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup
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PostSubject: Re: Aero-Naut Jenny   Sat Feb 07, 2015 2:08 am

Couldn't sleep decided to get myself ahead ...

Cut out all the bulkhead's and sanded the slots to get a tight dry fit, tomorrow i'll clean up all the bulkheads properly and start gluing them into place, but at least now you can see how this model takes shape.

I've also finished up the transom former, and dry fitted the entire section into place along with a dry fit of the prop shaft.















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PostSubject: Re: Aero-Naut Jenny   Sun Feb 08, 2015 12:13 am

Progress Today has followed, all the bulkheads sanded smooth and glues to the keel sections.
This has made 2 separate halfs of the boat up to the central 2 bulkheads which float in the middle for a few moment...





Next is to fit the Keel reinforces which are lazer grooved to accept a prop shaft through the keel, an then slip the 2 central bulkheads over the section.









Next was to fit the servo plates bracket, the servo plate itself is a 'removable' part for maintenance of the model, as access is limited once the deck is fitted. a nice thought for this kit is maintenance, and saves me some headachs thinking of ways around this later.





Then onto the worse bit of any build, fitting the stringers, 10 stringers in all, 5 each side ans 4 of those are double's for a wide section towards the stern. this is where i will dramatically slow down for a few days as this part requires a lot of time letting glues dry, as well as preparations, tapering edges, and ensuring as each stringer meets the bulkheads they are equally spaced and squared up, if this is not done right now then the hull will result in a twist that cant be easily fixed.







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PostSubject: Re: Aero-Naut Jenny   Sun Feb 08, 2015 12:27 am

Coming along nicely Aron.  2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup
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PostSubject: Re: Aero-Naut Jenny   Sun Feb 08, 2015 7:59 pm

Todays Job was to fit the stringers to the hull taking great care to keep the bulkheads square so not to twist the hull,..
I've had to taper the tips of the stringers and taper the bulkehd slots where the stringers fit in place.





After that it was to fit the transom supporting spare parts and the transom.





And finally fit part of the hull which makes the step and spray rails. this is not a neat job sadly, the parts are very fiddly being lazer cut then would only fit in a 'perfect world' but as with all hulls no matter how hard you try they will never be 'perfect' so i will have to reply on some filler at some later date on these parts to get the hull to look correct.



Next job is to start to snd down everything to the bulkheads and true up the hull read to start taking the skin.

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PostSubject: Re: Aero-Naut Jenny   Tue Feb 10, 2015 7:54 pm

No real update tonight guys, I've chamfered the bulkheads down to size but yet again run into the lower hull fitting issues with not getting parts to meet up correctly, so over the next 48 hours i will be busy marking out which parts of the skin to trim away, and then construct the jig to hold the shape. bit tricky but i'll add photos tomorrow if i remember

RR

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PostSubject: Re: Aero-Naut Jenny   Tue Feb 10, 2015 9:13 pm

my admiration goes out to you there RR........very nice wood work........think I have lost my touch with it over the years..........looks really good. neil.
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PostSubject: Re: Aero-Naut Jenny   Fri Feb 13, 2015 8:23 pm

Back up dads workshop last couple of afternoons, needed 4 hands to set the hull skins in place and let me tell you this was one of the most tricky hulls I've had to do, simply due to the built in spray rails and the panels needed to meet the bow mahogany panel, however after much perseverance, success!











I did however need to fill a small section on the bow tip to 're-center' the bow as the panel was a little off to one side, not entirely sure as to why this was the case, i expect the hulls chine rails were a little more bowed out on one side then the other probably by 1.5mm, yet the hull bulkheads are perfect square and true.

Next up is looking at at supporting the rather long shaft in the hull as the glue section through the keel only gives me around 1.5" of glue surface and 2" of the skeg which isn't really support its more just there for looks, so while the hull panels were going off, I've created a 'P' skeg to support the end of the shaft using some brass tube and brass sheet, silver soldering them together.


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PostSubject: Re: Aero-Naut Jenny   Fri Feb 13, 2015 9:54 pm

TOP NOTCH rr...........funnily enough I picked up an aeronaut sea commander today in a charity shop with 750 motor huco coupling and rudder servo...........25 sobs........just put it on ebay but if it doesn't sell think i'll keep it for the vintage boat rallies held at Fleetwood..........always fancied one as a kid.......can't go wrong for 25 quid.............nicely built too.......just in need od new paint work .
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PostSubject: Re: Aero-Naut Jenny   Sat Feb 14, 2015 7:59 pm

Was getting a tad frustrated with the hull today so put it aside for a day or so, so not to make a silly mistake i have to try to fix later.
basically its more planning how to make up a new motor mount as well as looking at the frame work to see how i can modifie the hatch cover to access the motor at a later date then following the kits original plan to just sit this 1mm bit of ply rest in place and clip down with a rubber band (always a better way to get a secure hatch) so figured that while i have a think on how i'm going to achieve what i want, i have taken the past 48 hours to start building up new seats for the cockpit. i didn't like the ordinals nor do i like the very basic layout of the cockpit, so now i'm scratch building a huge modification to the area very similar in design to the classic  keeping in mind my build style, as well as key features i like to incorporate into a boat) now its upping my game in detail to this boat.

Only one photo for today and its the start of the seats



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PostSubject: Re: Aero-Naut Jenny   Sat Feb 14, 2015 11:32 pm

Just for those who are interested this is what the kit provides in the way of cockpit detail...



This is just a sneeky peek of the start of mine...



I'm aiming for a central control console under the dash, an illuminated dash board, and clearly more classic squared bucket' seats
as well as a few extras to stand this model out from looking so basic in design, given how much a Real version of this boat would cost you'ld think you get more detail in a cockpit rather then 2 seats and a steering wheel right!

This is where i start to love these kits as the possibility's for customization is almost endless.

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PostSubject: Re: Aero-Naut Jenny   Sun Feb 15, 2015 12:53 am

just a rough test of illuminating the dash board, the finished version im hoping to light up in a neon blue or possibly a red glow to match the red leather interior, havent decided yet.



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PostSubject: Re: Aero-Naut Jenny   Sun Feb 15, 2015 12:44 pm

2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup Thumbup
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PostSubject: Re: Aero-Naut Jenny   Fri Feb 20, 2015 12:00 am

I know I know you guys are getting withdrawal symptoms from not seeing any progress last few days, sorry was to lazy to upload some pics...

this build is going a lot slower then normal, but mostly its all the modifications that need to be done so this model stands apart in both appearance and performance, in comparison to the classic which the only modification was the cabin section really this ones got a whole lot more. so anyway I've been scratch building parts the last few days, New finished seats, modified dash board, central dash pillar ( base for the next parts) and foot rests under the dash ( the etched parts are actually the foot plates from the classic which I never used on that model) and then planning how to light the dash up correctly. next jobs after will be to add even more detail to the cabin section, its a lot of work but i for-sea the outcome to give that really pop most people are looking for in a model.













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PostSubject: Re: Aero-Naut Jenny   Fri Feb 20, 2015 1:39 am

A work of ART Aron.  2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup
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PostSubject: Re: Aero-Naut Jenny   Wed Feb 25, 2015 12:56 am

Next job is the rudder. the rudder they supplied with the kit is more the adequate for the job if your using the suggested electrical setup, In this case i'm not so i have to re-think if the orginal threaded plastic rudder is suitable for overall performance of the boat,after speaking with my father on such things, he's suggested that the rudder is basically junk... and i'll take his word for it, can't argue with a guy whos been racing RC speed boats for 50 years!

So were once again back up my dads shop and were going to let him show you some work.. now i'm not metal worker but i can do odds and ends but when it comes to something that has to preform then he's the man here the following photos will show the start to finish of building a rudder from scratch.

Now the first thing to do is find the materials to use, in this case a 4mm steel rod, a sheet of 1.5mm brass, and a brass sleeve for the rudder tube. ( i wont show the tube you all know how they look)

2nd thing up is to make a template of the rudders shape, and see if its going to work for the boat, check any leading edges etc and see if it works, once your happy with this using a scribe mark on the brass the outline of the rudder, then mark out the point where the post is slotted into it, from there drill out the base of the post in the brass then start to cut the slot (undersize then fair it with a file later to get a Tight fit)







Once your happy with the fit of the post to the rudder you can start to work on silver soldering it together, this first starts with cleaning up the edges, ( the join)



Now positing the parts together , on a brick or heat stones, shim up areas to get the post to sit right (center and square) then mix up some flux for the job and spread it over the area to be joined.






Once the area is covered using a blow torch you can start to heat the metal up to temp, ( now im told this is where you need a nack, don't ask me how you know its just right its one of those things, although i'm told the solder wont flow if its to cold so i guess just get it hot so its not leaving blobs)





Once the pieces are up to temp, you can apply the solder, if the solder is just blobbing in place then its still to cold, keep heating the solder should flow like water!



Now i you did it right the side you heated up will look like hell.... the under side however will look quite pretty!





Then its just a matter of allowing it to cool ( you can pour water or oil over it if you wish, but this is silver soldering so not really needed, then start to clean up the mess.. using a file, emery cloths from 240 grit up to 1200,...





The finished result should look like this... all required left for this is final sanding and polishing,



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PostSubject: Re: Aero-Naut Jenny   Fri May 08, 2015 7:24 pm

Alright so were back on the Jenny for a period of time, I have laminations forming on the dolphin so not much I can do there until they set in the steamer.

So today I've decided to start finishing up the cockpit of the boat, and this involves some electrical work by lighting up the dash board using some 12v LED outdoor strip lights, then run off a 9V battery mounted under the seat, the on off switch is actually part of the seat, and looks more like a throttle control or a gear stick of some type. 

Generally i don't tend to detail a model with lighting, sound or other gadgets, they just become a tiresome job of maintaining the gear inside which I find time consuming for not a lot of pay off, but since LED technology has become more reliable and small enough for most applications it seams a shame on this model to waste an opportunity to have things light up. and given the Light will be fitted in a section sealed to never see the light of day again LED's are the logical choice for life span.  












Just a quick vid of the dash board working as it should, you'll have to forgive the underside battery compartment its just a cut-out at present but I'll pretty it up later.


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PostSubject: Re: Aero-Naut Jenny   Wed May 13, 2015 7:16 pm

Over the last few days I've been making up the running gear for the project.

Started by epoxying in the Brass P skeg I made Up Along with the rudder shaft. Then I had to fitted the water scoop inlet by rebating the hull, this meant making a reinforced doubler inside the hull to allow for the 2mm rebate to be taken out of the hull panel.

After that it was just a matter of just tighting up the water inlet with the nut.

Next job was to create the mounting point for the rudder servo. The kit supplies a WORKING servo tray and mounting point, which is accessed through the cockpit and the rear tiny hatch to adjust everything.

I have however opted to not use the rear tiny hatch, in fact i'm hoping to not use it at all and making it a fixed piece of the deck, (one less area to water tight as well as loosing a tiny hatch cover) time will tell, so I have created a mounting plate that allows me to access the servo and adjust the entire rudder section from only the cockpit section with a short stub type cross head driver.

There is plenty of room for small hands such as mine to work in the 2 holes provided by this kit, but if you have larger hands or are new to modelling then i would suggest sticking to the kits servo mounting method for shear simplicity.














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PostSubject: Re: Aero-Naut Jenny   Thu May 14, 2015 7:59 am

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PostSubject: Re: Aero-Naut Jenny   Fri May 15, 2015 5:49 pm

Now once you guys see this photo, you'll all understand why i build wooden boats!...

I can't fibre glass to save my life and to be honest I don't enjoy it anyway, so my interest in learning the ability to me a master fiber glasser is wasted upon me..

However that said there are times where i need to use fiber glass on a model and this happens to be one of them, this Boat is VERY light and structurally weak even with the hull panels on I could still flex the boats hull with little effort, so to add some decent structure and strength I've glassed the inside of the boat with 2 layers of tissue matting.,
This also allowed me to glass in the motor mount into its fixed position which was going to be a challenge with a wood glue joint given the angle the mount needed to be and very little surface area to stick it to this is the motor mount the kit supplies but its shape has been dramatically modified to fit the brush less motor and the shaft/coupling position.







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PostSubject: Re: Aero-Naut Jenny   Fri May 15, 2015 7:11 pm

Last photo of the day is where I've fitted the deck support beams into place permanently.
Jobs left now are to fit the deck, free boards, final sanding, varnish, paint and detail.
I forget how easy these models go together & how fast you can build them.



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PostSubject: Re: Aero-Naut Jenny   Mon May 18, 2015 10:21 pm

Todays Post can be located here as its a separate topic.

https://www.thercmodelboatforum.com/t1107-building-a-boat-stand

RR

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PostSubject: Re: Aero-Naut Jenny   Thu Jun 11, 2015 9:21 pm

for those wondering why there has been no progress on the model, its not through lack of effort its a matter of humidity and heat what remains for this project is the deck and the windscreen, then its only finalizing and varnishing. however the 2 pac varnish i use required a set temperature and humidity and has to be completely stable, with the summer months coming in the heat has dramatically risen  in the workshop meaning limited working time with the varnish ( it literally goes off in seconds and u end up dragging the tacky surfaces as u apply the rest of the layer), also with the on off rain and weather we are having the humidity can effect the wood in expanding and contracting unevenly which in turn will ruin the varnish as it will just crack and split, i have a feeling it wont get finished until august/sept when we get the cooler period.

thats the only disadvantage of using a 2 pac varnish, you need perfect conditions to get it flowing right 

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PostSubject: Re: Aero-Naut Jenny   Thu Jul 02, 2015 8:40 pm

Well while i was stuck up my dads this afternoon, waiting for him to cast another lead keel and rudder for the 2nd weenip project, i took the advantage and push ahead a little more with this build. 
Mainly the deck, the deck itself comes in 7 parts, the main part is a lamination of white ply and mahogany strip. then you have to add 2mm white ply stringers around the deck edge followed by some 10mm mahogany outer edges.

This was a job for MR superglue and a really flat surface, gluing the parts in place was pretty simple just a matter of keeping the edges flat and flush and running superglue down the join. the hard part was to fill the very slight gaps that are left from the lazer cut parts. As the varnish i use really hates gaps and dislikes voids which hinder the perfect finish, you have to be able to fill those gaps, only problem is that when your trying to fill gaps with different colored material its not an easy job to get a perfect match!

however there is a solution to that problem and its very simple.. smear with your finger some wood glue into the seams, in small sections at a time, then using a circular motion and some 220 grit sand paper rub over the area,this should be done in moments of the the glue being applied hence doing small sections at a time.
Any sanded off partials will fill the voids and give you a perfect seamless edge...




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PostSubject: Re: Aero-Naut Jenny   Fri Jul 03, 2015 4:29 am

Give a great look Aron.  2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup
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PostSubject: Re: Aero-Naut Jenny   Wed Dec 09, 2015 1:31 pm

In preparation for moving the last huge job to do on this model was fit the deck, which will save it getting damaged in a few weeks time, you haven't missed much in the build I've simply not done anything other then fit the deck hatch to the frame and fit the deck to the hull. i'm currently working on the cockpit hatch to finish that section in the last few days i have free before moving.


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PostSubject: Re: Aero-Naut Jenny   Thu Dec 10, 2015 8:30 am

astounding work Aron..........truly am very envious of your woodworking skills.......pure beauty.
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PostSubject: Re: Aero-Naut Jenny   Mon Dec 14, 2015 9:11 pm

Deck is almost finished so preparing to pack her up safe for my trip, i still have to add a strip around the rear hatch to tidy it up, that can be done later.


 I have decided ahead of time to not use the alui 'decorative' pieces around the hatches, after almost 2 years running the classic I've found those parts crap up and are very hark to keep clean, and in the case of this model a huge accident waiting to happen should i drop one of the hatches and bend the aliu etching. 
I was tempted at one point to construct a brass framework, to match up with my usual style of dark woods and polished brass but my options are limited with the hatches since damage and 'butter fingers' are common and would ruin a nice model.


SO have opted to put a mahogany strip around the inside edge, sanded flush to the hatch and deck to give a unique version. after i make up brass lights, horn and such and make a new brass windshield i think it will look spot on although not true to an original boat, but hey i like it and i know once the decks polished up no ones gonna give a damn!


I've also decided after much debate with my old man, varnishing the sides over painting. this model is very much as my Dad said 'slab sided' after googling what little photos of this model i can find built on google, i've come to the choice that painting the sides is now my goal, i do think this will step away from my usual model styles, but i believe that this boat would benefit from a decent paint scheme, over a white base and wooden sides, to be honest if she was more shapely, like a Revierra or similar then i would have opted to varnish totally. but this is a sports boat in many ways and sport means fast and what better but to give it a bright red paint job with racing stripes !


anyway Photos cos i've yapped for far to long.










This will probably be my last post until the new year, so until then i wish you all a Happy Xmas and a great new year and look forward to seeing what projects santa has brought you all!

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PostSubject: Re: Aero-Naut Jenny   Sat Jun 11, 2016 5:29 pm

Time to finish this model its been 6 months since i last did anything!


Last time you saw i had just stuck down the deck and made up hatch trims, 


What i didn't show was the error in the hull, somewhere along the way the boat took on a 2mm slant, now i was methodical when i was framing up and adding the chines keeping square and all, so i expect this has happens when i was applying the fiber glass reinforcement internally.
This was only noticed when i went to sand the deck as one side was way larger then the other both at the bow and at stern, fortunately the stern is only 0.5mm off so i haven't modified it as you can't even tell with out a measure, but the bow was dramatically noticeable!!!


Fortunately not a deal breaker as the model will have painted sides rather then varnish, but to fix it some dramatic butchering was needed!


This involved sanding the hull to shape which tore through the bow side panel and removing a big chunk of bulkhead. Thankfully the internal fiber glass was there to help in keeping things less chaotic, and the fix came by fiberglassing tissue over the damaged area and p38 to tidy up.


this isn't really an issue, more a annoying pain in my ass, but also allows me to true the sides with p38 to remove the waviness caused by the fiberglassing.


AS you can see by the 2nd photo its pretty much the same both sides now, it was a LOT worse before sanding!!!!






Today tho I've taken the time to sand and polish out the rudder, which you last saw in its rough finish from creation, this involved sanding with 600, 1200, 2000, 2500 and then 3 attempts with brasso to bring out a mirror finish, this will again get polished even further upon final fit out as it will tarnish up again between now and then but for now its no longer a rough rudder!


See the reflection  lol!




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PostSubject: Re: Aero-Naut Jenny   Mon Apr 17, 2017 12:37 am

Well after almost 6 months of no work I'm back to this seeing how other projects are finished.

Upon my return I've found an issue with the deck, as you know the deck is a lamination of butt joints between materials, I followed the instructions to the letter during construction however time is a nightmare when leaving unsealed work, the hull structurally cannot move since it was fiberglasses however the deck wasn't, and it wasn't given a sacrificial base board to glue the entire thing to like I normally do with builds, and unlike any other aeronaut kit this was the first I've had which needed 6 parts to make it up.

There is the outer mahogany trim then and internal ply strip only 1mm in width all butted up to the main deck and now I've found that the deck is delaminating across these glue joints, only explanation is that wood moves and the glue surface is far from substantial enough to support this, I'm also lead to believe if I had varnished the deck and it had done this it would have split the entire deck leaving nothing but iriparable damage. Good thing I spotted this now...

Leading to a fit I've started cutting up some .5mm ply to bridge the parts between the bulkheads and affixing them with a ton of glue and a dab of superglue to keep them from shifting since I can't get clamps into some areas.

I'll have to now use a tried and tested method of mahogany dust and wood glue paste to seal the gaps and resand smooth.

Small headache for a few days but fortunate in some respect it happens now rather than later.




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PostSubject: Re: Aero-Naut Jenny   Tue Apr 18, 2017 7:57 pm

All the cracks have now been reinforced underneath the deck, filled and the deck sanded smooth yet again, this evening I've taken the time to seal the deck to I hope stop the deck shifting again using the epoxy varnish and thinners mix, tomorrow I'll give the deck a light rub down and a 2nd coat.

As you can see from the photos you would never have known this problem occurred!.




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PostSubject: Re: Aero-Naut Jenny   Sat Jul 14, 2018 12:14 am

Hmm last post April last year... Jeeze I need to kick some of these boat up a notch...

While I work in my secret project I’ve got some tome to try to get further with this boat.

Good news is the repair to the deck stretch has held and no more cracks or plank pulls have appeared.

So it’s time to get this pain in my ass finished... it’s been a pain ever since I attempted to fair the hull after I rushed putting the deck down a week before I moved to wales. So all these recent issues with deck and now the hull is a result of that singular rush job...

Now In fairing the hull I had to true up the bow as the deck was off Center by 2mm and believe me it was noticeable, so I faired the hull mostly on The starboard side and well there just wasn’t enough material and I ended up sanding through the skin, into the deck chine... so I patched it with some glass fiber weave, reasonable fix but I knew it was going to take more so I put the boat down until today!

So I went back and faired the bow properly and well put it this way when I finished the remaining skin section was so thin I got my fingers stuck!!!!

This of course sanding though wouldn’t have been a huge deal due to the boat being glassed inside however as sods law would have it that section of the bow didn’t get a good enough bond infact it was still soft fiber along the edge!

So only one thing for it... bridging compound out and litrally jam the entire bow full of the mix!

Tomorrow I’ll hammer the bow hard, an refill again if needs be, I want to recuse how much p38 I use as a filler as it’s got no real strength but the bridging compound is stronger then concrete once set, p38 will just be used to help in the fairing.

Good thing this boat is being painted and not varnished other wise I would be crying right now lol!

Maybe I’ll start having some luck from now on???? Maybe Twisted Evil







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PostSubject: Re: Aero-Naut Jenny   Sun Jul 15, 2018 12:04 am

Bow fixed and pretty much true to the deck pattern now, I have a slight ridge in the port side to clean up when I go to fair the hull but the bow itself is strong and as close to perfect I can get it with out butchering more of the hull.

Fortunately once I make up the bow guard the imperfection that dose remain will be hidden.

I’ve also taken the time to make a 1mm slot around the rear hatch, due to the original fittings being this gawd awful aluminium, it marks up so easily and the extra point that it simply will not stick to the deck once it’s epoxied, I modified the hatch’s to have mahogany trims instead, however the rear hatch didn’t show the trim to well on the horizontals in fact they were out in so well and tight that you couldn’t distinguish the deck to the trims, this of corse wouldn’t be an issue if I kept the hatch working and used the kits trims, so in order to make the hatch stand out as a rear function I’ve slotted out a groove around it so it looks like that of the engine hatch.

I will clean up the edges of this groove and fill with black paint, this should do the trick of imitating a working hatch in what would otherwise be a solid and sealed deck.

Let me know what you think or if I need to add something to the grove other than paint, I was thinking black thread but I’m not sure at this point.








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PostSubject: Re: Aero-Naut Jenny   Sun Jul 15, 2018 1:12 am

2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup
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PostSubject: Re: Aero-Naut Jenny   Sun Jul 15, 2018 1:34 am

I’ve infilled the hatch seam with black paint and wood glue mix and I’ll let that set overnight and see how it looks, right now it’s looking way to black but I’ll give it chance to dry first, if it still looks awful in the morning I’ll make up a mahogany round over edge similar to that I did on the row boats hatch and slide it into the groove, it will be a raised hatch combing but that’s the best I can come up with for an alternative option.




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PostSubject: Re: Aero-Naut Jenny   Sun Jul 15, 2018 9:55 pm

I didn’t like the black slot around the hatch once it dried, it looked totally un natural and well cr@p.

I experimented with adding a raised lip around the hatch, didn’t like that either... stopped the deck being total flat...

So after a bit of thought I took brutal action...

Cut the entire hatch right out of the boat, fitted a false base , added mahogany trims exactly like I did the engine hatch, sanded the hatch down to give me a paper thin slot around the perimeter and glued the entire thing back in place, sanded the trims down flush to the deck and drilled the hatch handle holes.

To be honest... job looks that good you can’t tell it’s fake in comparison to the engine hatch now!

I still have to slide some wet and dry down the slot to even up a few edges and give a slight radius to the other edge which will stop the epoxy later clogging the slot.

But overall good result just wish I had done that In the first place!

Engine hatch



Fake hatch.


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PostSubject: Re: Aero-Naut Jenny   Sun Jul 29, 2018 3:51 pm

Ive done a little more work to this boat over the last week, switching between projects as I normally do, but I haven’t done a lot but the jobs done are critical to the finish.

Last we spoke I had apprempted to make the rear hatch appear similar to the forward hatch for some continuity as the rear hatch a frame work blended a little too well into the deck leaving it looking very odd.

A successful outcome achieved so since then I have given the deck two coats of epoxy to seal and protect it, which actully took nearly 4 days to cure, this was due to the amount of thinners I used in the epoxy mix to penetrate the surface, as you know going back in the blog I had an issue with the deck expanding, leading to some of the decks separation parts delaminating from the deck, this issue although caused by some haste in fitting as I was moving and the deck a large sheet would no doubt have been damaged if left loose, I neglected to seal the under side, now although I fixed most of the damage from this stretching it wasn’t until last week I have the deck a solid rub down that one section of my previous repair came back to haunt me, epoxy this thin will not puddle or fill gaps so I’ve returned to my method of wood dust and glue to make a paste, which in this section I’ve puddled and will allow to dry hopefully filling this final gap, which I won’t onow if fully worked for a couple of days and another sanding, however I am optimistic and do think I may have fixed this issue.




Shortly before doing that deck repair I have also finished the props keel, the original boat shows the shaft overhang of this skeg by easily 1.5”, I was never happy with that given that this boat contains a 14” shaft and it’s only support is some 3mm ply as the skeg, and the internal spaced supports, so I opted to reinforce this god awful joint and solid up the skeg by adding a P frame to the end of the shaft, made from brass it’s bolted and epoxied Into the hull but this left a gap between the original skeg and the frame which is entirely to unsightly, so I’ve created using some .5mm ply some inserts to cover the skeg and join the p frame, it is of course at this point still rough and will need some sanding and some filler to make it look as a singular peice but it has hidden the inaccuracy of the boat with the modification but also has the strength to take what ever I throw at it with no fear of shaft bend or glue detaching leaving a very long almost 9” of floating shaft.

This improvement to the skeg also allowed me to tween its angle very slightly which I must point out isn’t needed generally, the boat accepts a 40mm prop easily from the get go, however I am running a very beasty brushless and like to have prop options so this slight angle tweek gives me a range of props from a plain 40 ( currently fitted ) an x40, plain 45 and an x45 if I desire.

The hull of this boat is truly stable and capable of solid speeds and most who know my builds also know I don’t give a monkey about “scale speed” so having a not only good looking boat but one that can put many of those fast electric fly boys to shame is always great fun.

I’m currently at that point now where truing and fairing  the hull is the next step, to which I’ll take my time as my other project needs the shop to be kept relatively clean and p38 & grp dust dose scatter like crazy on a job this big so I’ll get to it as and when, there are a few other jobs I can still do before then if I want, which would be to look at the windshield of the boat, again another modification to the original, so I may take the time to start fiddling there instead for the time being.





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PostSubject: Re: Aero-Naut Jenny   Mon Jul 30, 2018 4:43 am

2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup Looking mighty fine Aron.  2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup 2thumbsup
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