Dean's Marine Tug YARRA

My next project! (Got to keep out of mischief ) I ordered the kit at the Open Day back in September and have been waiting to finish the Pilot Boat so that I could start. Its only around 50cm long so fits my criteria beautifully. The kit looks to be rather better quality than previous Dean's kits I have built, but its from the first run, so there maybe some problems ahead

The contents of the box


What you can't see are two sheets of laser cut and one of printed plastic card.

After cleaning the hull with meths, then cream cleaner, the first job was to smooth the inside of the bulwarks with filler and sanding. I always find it difficult to see if I've got it smooth enough until its painted, so here's hoping. (Photo taken before final sanding)



Next it was cutting the slots for the prop shafts. Here comes my first mistake. I mis-read the instructions, or rather the photograph and cut them in the wrong location To correct my error I used some fibreglass mat applied with easyKote resin to the insides, and filled the outside. When I come to fix the tubes in place, I will strengthen my repair by covering the whole area with P40. I have to say from the photograph in the instructions that I think Dean's may have made the same mistake with one tube


and this is the position today - the tubes ready for alignment and fixing.



Barrie

this should be interesting Barrie.

Will watch with interest as I am considering one of these myself.

I've just been reviewing the CD of photos for this build and I was right - they initially got the prop tube slots in the wrong place! Makes me feel a bit better

I am a bit stuck now as I ordered some P40 to fix the tubes in place and I was sent P38 instead. I know P38 will do the job, but the consensus on Mayhem seems to be that P40 is better for that job. I ordered online as it was cheaper than driving to my nearest Halfords - will now have to wait for it to be sorted out

Barrie

Barrie with all due respect to the opinions of others P38 will do the job admirably well and prob sands a little easier.

Never had any issues with it so far myself but ask me in 5 years and I will check if its degraded any.

its styrene resin based and i believe rated for marine use so salt water resistant unlikely to degrade any least it hasn't on my oldest hulls about 8 yrs and counting just make sure you keep it from frost before mixing, mix thoroughly and use it at the right working temp and everything will be fine mate

Today I've continued with aligning and fixing the prop tubes - quite tricky with two I think they are parallel and correctly aligned.



I've also fixed a platform for the motor mounts - this was even more difficult working with two shafts, but I am happy they are now lined up and when the glue has set, I can fix the mounts. To help me I made an alignment tube from a couple of Huco inserts and a length of brass tube.



The white metal props will be replaced by brass when they come from George Sitek.

Barrie

Looking good mate shame that so many kit manufacturers supply those props when i most peoples opinion they're only fit for static display especially when said manufacturer goes to the trouble of including motors

No motors with this one Phil! The instructions do call the white metal ones "blanks" and gives instructions for shaping and balancing. If they included their own brasss ones it would add nearly £60 to the cost. The ones from G Sitek are about half that

Barrie

Are the props to spun at such a speed that they need to be so finely balanced Barrie? on a tug I wouldn't have thought so, but as they say each to his own, and if you feel it needs props of mr Sitek's quality then thats the way you must go

personally I only use georges props where high quality is paramount finding raboesch props or similar (usually from Steve tranter at Model Boat Bits) are perfectly adequate for my purposes

On the point about motors when I looked at deans marines web site I'm nearly sure it said this kit came with a power train and running gear ????

Phil,
The Sitek props are cheaper than the Raboesch ones - that's why I went for them I agree that balancing would not be required, but shaping would - they have no aerodynamic shape at all.

If it was possible to buy plastic Kort props I would do that as once its in the water you can't see the props , and as you say, ultra efficiency is not required for this model. I am not aware of motors being included in any of Dean's kits. I am however using two of theirs in this boat.

Barrie

Er when did that happen mr Sitek was last time I looked second for quality and price only to the prop shop!! what size props are you using ?

Just re-read the deans site and your right running gear is included but no mention of motors. must've had a senior moment lol

George's props are competitiveley priced but when the whole running gear shebang is bought including A Frames then the price really mounts up. Still saving for my Dido Running gear!!

What motors are you going to fit Barrie?

Kyte motors. The motors are a little pricey I thought compared to no name 385s, which is what I think they are.

40 mm Kort props. I started using George when Prop Shop wouldn't communicate with me , and I find him quite a bit cheaper than Prop Shop, but I fear he is giving up. The lead times have gone up alarmingly.

Have you looked at Model Boat Bits for prop shafts and A frames? He doesn't do own make props, but sells Raboesch I think.

Barrie

barriew wrote:

Have you looked at Model Boat Bits for prop shafts and A frames? He doesn't do own make props, but sells Raboesch I think.

Barrie

I can't fault Steves running gear and service if you ring him with a one off special request its often in the post the following day. Your right about his props they are raboesch but quite well priced

yes I have and I have used him for another set of running gear recently. However for the Dido George has the set I want especiallly for Dido so I will use him but I wil use Steve again

I have now fixed the propshafts with fibre glass paste, and also covered up my latest mistake! There were two indentations in the hull which I took to be for the rudders, so I drilled them - wrong

The supports for the propshafts and Kort nozzles are in place, and the Korts are ready for fitting after I have sanded the filler around the supports. The rudders are also ready for fitting once the nozzles are fixed so I can work out the position.



Barrie

The Kort nozzles are next. The instruction suggest using brass rods to strengthen the join to the hull, but I couldn't see how to securely hold them in place whist the glue sets, so I decided to use 8BA brass nuts and bolts instead of the rod. I can use these to hold them firmly in place whilst things set and add strength in use.
Everything is now ready for gluing, but it got too cold in the workshop so it will have to wait until tomorrow



As you will see, there is not likely to be much effect from the Korts - they are just plain tubes, and too big a gap between the props and the tube.

Barrie

looking good Barrie my answer to the kort issue would, if the motors will stand it , be bigger props, though I suspect there will be more than adequate thrust without proper korts though that depends on whether or not you intend to us it for towing compititions

Its not really a problem Phil as I don't intend to tow with it. Just a comment really on the standard of the kit. I have 40 mm props on order, the same size as the white metal ones. Because of the clearance I was able to use my bolts

Barrie

I have now fixed the rudders. I deviated fro the instructions which had you fixing them before the support strips for the deck. I wanted to be sure there would be clearance, so fixed the strips first. The deck requires a little more trimming before fixing, and I need to sort out the location for the servo, Rx and ESC before it is fixed down.



Barrie

I've spent the last few days trying to fit the proverbial quart into a pint pot trying to incorporate all the electronics for the tug. I used to think tugs were good because they had lots of spce for equipment, but this one doesn't

It would have been relatively easy if I was using an Mtroniks ESC, but I wanted to use the Action combined ESC and mixer that I had. Its all in now, although the wiring will be tidier in the final version, but it all needs to come out for spraying.

I also cut the anchor recesses and fixed the mouldings - just got to finish tidying up the freeing ports then I can give the hull a spray of primer at least.



Just had news that the Kort props I ordered have been lost by Royal Mail, so will have to re-order if they can't find them (I have had a refund from G Sitek). They were sent Recorded so maybe they will turn up. I am think of fitting 40 mm plastic props for testing - there is so much gap between the prop and the Kort Nozzle that I don't think it will affect performance.

Barrie

I have now completed the wiring etc. The BEC I was going to use proved inadequate for the job so has been replaced by a home made one which seems to be OK. I have now fixed the deck down . I used a gel Cyano glue and it is now ready for a little filling round the edges, although it is a pretty tight fit. Since the photo was taken I have started on the coamings for the wheelhouse and shaped the wheelhouse to fit the shape of the deck.
I have also applied the anti-fouling colour. I used the Humbrol colour suggested by Deans, but it seems a bit odd to me. I usually use Halfords Plastic Primer, the problem with this is 1 - you need reasonable weather to spray, and 2 - its difficult to touch up if you scratch it



Barrie

i'm glad someone is organised when it comes to putting radio gear and batteries into a model..........I just hope for the best and fit what goes in the best I can..........totally disorganised to a fault.

neil

I'm not sure about organised - I really struggled to fit everything in this one. I can just about access everything I need to with the deck on. It would have been easy if I hadn't decided to use the ACTion ESC/Mixer. An mTroniks Viper would have fitted easily. As it is I have not managed to fit a fuse so will just have to hope the props don't get jammed.

Barrie

To be fair barrie I've never fitted a fuse, I just ensure the esc can handle the stalled amps of the motor and touch wood so far never had any sort of an issue. in fact the only esc I've ever fried was back in the early days I parallel wired 2 bty banks to increase run time with out a schottky diode and because of a slight imbalance in the charge the resulting back charge through the esc from one bty pack to the other resulted in the obligatory white smoke, I'll never make that mistake again lol.

I have now fitted the coamings for the superstructure, and trimmed the moulding to fit. All the freeing ports and the hawse openings have been finished - the hull painting can now be finished when I've marked the waterline.

I have started constructing the wheelhouse - lots of bits and lots of windows. The instructions say to fit each window individually, bu I think I will probably just stick the glazing sheet to the inside. I would like to use tinted glazing but I'm not sure if I will be able to find any. The prototype had bright blue windows which did not look quite correct to my eyes.



Barrie

I managed to find tinted perspex and ordered some, but its 3mm thick which I think will be a problem to fit, so I went back to the Internet and located some tinted transparent vinyl film which I have also ordered. This will be stuck to the clear plastic supplied. Of course everyone's on holiday so I'm still waiting

To pass the time I've been fettling and painting some of the resin fittings - and do they need some fettling Apart from poor moulding, they are all sticky to the touch and quite brittle. I am not impressed!!



I have also filled the gap between the deck and bulwarks, not a big job the deck was a good fit. I need to paint the top of the hull when I've marked the waterline.

Barrie

Looking good Barrie, my preferred method for tinted windows is a spray can of smoked glass paint usually available from rc model car shops and most places that sell pactra paints. the beauty of this is your can apply as much or as little as is needed to get your required tint.

The issue of poorly finished moldings seems to be very widespread amongst kit manufacturers and It surprises me that their QC is such that this doesn't get picked up

Hi Barrie, I'm currently building Deans Mtb 488 and yes as you say all of the resin parts were very 'sticky' I assume it is release agent or something. A good scrub in warm soapy water seems to do the trick followed by a quick dip in meths for belt and braces as they say. Didn't need to do them all as I replaced a lot of them!

Regards, Tony.

The stickyness I could live with, but practically all had far too much resin on the bases, needing lots of sanding I started this thinking it was better than Dean's usual quality, but its just the same. At first glance the instructions looked to be specific to the Yarra, but no - lots of repetition and bits culled from other models which are not relevant. I've also just discovered they've messed up the paint colours, so am having to re-paint the underwater hull. The colour they gave for this to my mind should be the deck colour - the deck colour suggested was gloss crimson. Looking at the photos, it should have been the colour they gave for the underwater hull
This was from the initial production run and I could feed back some comments, but it would mean me re-writing the instruction book

I'm just struggling with the wheelhouse. Its a very complicated shape, and some of the bits just don't fit. The fact it needs to be glazed doesn't help.

These two problems explain why here have been no postings for a day or two

Barrie

The underwater hull has now been repainted in Humbrol Red Brown (100) which I think looks better than the Matt Wine (73) it was originally. This latter colour is now on the deck and looking better than the Gloss Crimson given in the instructions.
Tomorrow I will add the boot topping and then give it a couple of coats of Humbrol Satin Varnish.



Barrie

Looking good Barrie and moving on nicely

Thanks Phil, Once I crack the wheelhouse it will come together quickly. Most of the sub-assemblies are made, just the fittings to clean up and paint. I do have to fit the bulwark supports, but I haven't got the strip yet. It was not included in the kit but suggested for a more realistic appearance.

Barrie

The first few posts had me swayed towards getting my own Yarra. The last few posts have swayed me back away from getting one. Very helpful Barry!!

Intrepid,

I don't think this kit is any worse than a lot of others on the market. The only real problem I have had has been with the wheelhouse. I may have contributed to my problems by the way I decided to glaze it. There are a lot of windows and not a lot of space! Some of the fittings required rather more sanding than I would have liked, but so far I haven't found any really bad ones that I can't use.

Barrie

Looking good Barrie

Boot topping now painted - tomorrow I will give it a coat of Humbrol Satin Varnish - when I've mended my daughter's vacuum and my grandson's toy car

The wheelhouse construction is finished and it has had a coat of matt white - not sure if this is the final colour. I need to check the DVD of photos that came with the kit. For some reason its not included in the paint colour list

Barrie

Today I started fixing the railings - not my favourite job especially with white metal stantions Part way through to give me some encouragement to finish, I tried the wheelhouse and funnel to see how it would look.



I did actually finish this level - there is another set on top of the wheelhouse



The railings still have to be painted!

Barrie

Thats looking Good Barrie "Proper Job" mate

Looking very nice Barrie.

Railings now fitted and painted to upper level. I've started making the mast assembly and have been painting more fittings. Today the micro strip arrived at last - its over a month since I ordered it. The first supplier waited two weeks to tell me they were out of stock and couldn't get any more, the scond took over a week to deliver. I can now detail the bulwarks and finish painting the hull.

Barrie

I've started detailing the bulwarks. A job guaranteed to get superglue everywhere but where its needed I hope some of the strips are not as out of line as they appear on these photos



Barrie

I did have to re-apply some of the strips, now done and the bulwarks given two coats of paint. I have been painting fittings so not much to show at the moment, although I did dry assemble some items to see what they look like.



The figures are 1/50 scale and cost the grand total of £2.24 inc postage for 10. Half are female so no good for this model, but 3 will be OK I think.

Barrie

You can always do gender re-assignment to make more blokes Barrie.
I did for the passengers for the mini sub on my seaport build.
Looking really good I'm really enjoying this build.
Damien.

Yes Damien I could but I think a crew of three is enough for a tug

Barrie

Turning out very nice indeed. Not quite off my wish list and may still get one in the future but for now I opted for a Sirmar Motor Minesweeper for my next build once I finish off my Northlight Puffer which is virtually at the painting stage so will be starting the MMS soon, although I have a Castle Class Corvette Hull from Metcalfe Mouldings and will do the two builds alongside each other.

If you are happy building semi kits and scratch, then the Yarra should be no problem.

Barrie

Oh I dont think Im ever happy when Im building whatever. My building is always accompanied by expletive, expletive piece of effing junk, what an expltive expletive I am..........etc...........Which is half the fun!!