Mobile Marine Models Damen Stan 1605 Tug

Having now finished the Grandson's music box, I am free to start on my next model. I was looking for a small tug and selected this one from Mobile Marine. I ordered the hull at Leamington and it duly arrived just before the end of November. The hull is nicely moulded and required only a little work to remove the join line, and one or two minor holes to fill.

The first job was to cut the freeing ports for which I used an abrasive disc in my mini-drill. They still need a little work to finally clean them up.

This hull is quite shallow, so fitting in the motors etc is quite tricky. I bought the propulsion pack with the hull, which comprises two MMM T4A motors, couplings and fixed Korts with separate rudders. It is going to be particularly tricky getting the rudders in - or at least the operating arms. A far as I can see it will not be possible to use the supplied arms and get the top of the rudder tube above the water line. I will probably revert to my usual method of canibalising a 13amp plug for suitable bits of brass

A couple of pictures of progress so far - the one I took of the Korts was out of focus so will have to be re-taken.



Barrie

I plan to us an ACTion P94 lite combined ESC and mixer for the electrics and the 12 volt 3.3Ahr SLA shown in the picture, but this may not be its final position I am thinking that it might be an idea to use a miniature servo for steering as a full size one doesn't really fit between the propshafts. My current plan is to build a platform over the shafts to take the ESC, servo and fuses.

Barrie

Will watch this build with interest. Have ocassionaly looked at this hull before but never got round to getting one.

Good to see a new build in progress Barrie, don't leave anything out, even little bits deserve a post and pic and it makes it easier for anyone else building the same boat.

Good luck with the build barrie.

Alan

AlanP wrote:

it makes it easier for anyone else building the same boat.

And easier for the thick too - I don't see why I should be left out

Dave

Norseman wrote:

AlanP wrote:

it makes it easier for anyone else building the same boat.

And easier for the thick too - I don't see why I should be left out

Dave

Sorry but you behind me in the Queue as site thicko

ah - but don't forget I once sent you a link to your Intrepid site -

now that demonstrates just how thick I can be - where's your proof?

Dave

A good solid start and a great choice of electrics. I have a P94 unit in my MMM Lady T and it works brilliantly.

As for the thickest member, maybe a little competition could be arranged?

I've just been reviewing my work and found that one of the Korts had moved out of alignment I have removed it but I have another concern. I started building before I bought the props, as I wanted to be sure I had the correct size. I used a disc of plastic to align things, but I'm still not totally sure the props will fit so I won't be doing anymore in this area until I get them - probably not until the middle of January given the holiday period and George Sitek's usual lead time.

I can also see another problem looming! The head of the rudder post will be under the deck. The foot goes into a fitting fixed to the bottom of the Kort. This is going to make it very difficult to get the prop on after I seal down the deck. There is a large "hatch" covering most of the rear deck, but it doesn't extend over the rudder posts as far as I can see, also it is flush with the deck so sealing that is going to be a problem as well.

Plenty to think about over the holiday!

Barry - I already have one P94 in my Tyne Lifeboat which performs beautifully.

Barrie

This might help you Barrie, if you have room at the stern over your Kortz..........I had to make some flush decks on an old model of Scharnhorst years ago which had flush decks at the stern, and then subsequently used it on every trawler I built after that that had a flush fitting deck hatch, and I never got any leaks in the hatch.

I hope the drawing enclosed is explanatory, but if not, I cut a hatch opening out to a little larger size than I needed and I marked this up against the deck so that it would locate back in the same place when putting back.

I then put a combing in the underside of the hatch level with the edge of the opening. to that I added a strip of 1.8 mm ply all the way round the bottom of the combing piece, and to that, then glued a corresponding "upstand" combing to the outer edge of this, leaving a sealed 3.5mm wide channel running around the access hole.

To the piece of hatch opening that I had cut out I put a piece of timber (3mm ply) around the edge of the hatch cover, facing downwards and glued this on.

The hatxch then forms a perfect capilliary trap for the water ingress, and if treated to a thin smear of vaseline, you'll never get water into it, and it will fit flush and perfectly in but giving good access to the running gear.

neil.

Thanks for that Neil - just what I need. I hadn't really thought how I was going to solve the problem, but using that method I can probably make a separate hatch over the rudder posts as well as the main one.

Barrie

no probs matey.......it does work, tried and tested, lol

Very clever idea that......Must make a note of it...

I had a pleasant surprise this morning when my props arrived from George Sitek. I fully expected to have to wait at least another couple of weeks

However, they confirmed my fears that I had not got the prop shafts/korts aligned correctly so I had to remove one prop shaft and refit. Just waiting for the glue to set firmly.

Earlier, before the props arrived, I fitted the bearers for the deck and for a platform for the steering servo and receiver. There really is not much "headroom" in the stern area of this tug! I will have to find somewhere else to fit the ESC/mixer I think.

To fit the bearers and to 'tack' the propshaft, I used some new glue from Model Boat Bits. It sets quite quickly - or at least seems to, but this appears to be on the surface only - the inside stays 'unset' for quite some time - 48hrs plus.



I have also made the tillers - in the end I used some brass collets and brass strip - I couldn't find any spare 13A plugs The rudders will be fitted when I am sure the props and korts are OK.

Barrie

The prop-shafts are now fixed and in the correct position! The Korts have been refitted and the props now turn in them The motor mounts have been screwed down, although I may have to refit them with a shim of plastic under them. They come with double sided adhesive. When you screw them down this compresses so has put the alignment out slightly.


I have also cut the deck. I decided to make it in two parts although its only one level. It makes it easier to get into the hull. Its made from 1.5mm plasticard. Its feels quite rigid, but I will fit some cross beams. I have cut out two hatches so that I can gauge access and where to fit the beams. There is one more opening to cut for the cabin.


Next job will be fitting the rudders and making a platform for the servo, receiver and switch. There is a raised hatch at the front of the large hatch which I will use for access to the switch. The ESC will have to go under the cabin with the battery.

that looks nice work barrie, and those props certainly look lovely.

neil.

Thanks for the kind remarks. I have always used George Sitek for props. I could never get any response from Prop Shop, and now don't even try

I haven't made a lot of visible progress with the build recently - I keep finding I need something else to be able to proceed. I am currently waiting for Dave Milbourn to get back from holiday so I can order the ESC/Mixer. Space is quite tight in this hull so I need all the bits before I can fix the decks - the clearance is not great so I need to see where I can put the P94.

However, there has been some progress as the following pics will show. The more observant of you will notice that the joint between the two parts of the deck is at an angle. I think this arose because the hull is not symmetrical at the bows, and I marked the centre line by measuring from each eadge, and then drew at right angles to that - well that's my excuse anyway

Barrie

Well, I've now received and built my P94lite from ACTion and tried to fit it and a 12volt SLA into the hull.....

.....As you can see - its a bit tight

I have two options as I don't like the SLA so near the bows, and getting the wiring anything like tidy will be a nightmare

Option 1 is to use a LiPo; Option 2 is to use an Mtroniks ESC ( which I have) and forego the mixing, or try the mixing on the Tx.

I think I am going to go with the latter option. I would need at least a 3000MAH Lipo which are not cheap, plus a LiPo guard so I don't over discharge it. This is a pretty small hull and I don't intend to enter any steering competitions with it, thus maneuverability is not critcal, so I will keep the P94 for another model where the mixing will be of more use.

Barrie

So, I decided Option 2 was the way to go. I have fitted everything in now, and stuck down the decks - I just hope I don't need to do any serious work on the running gear as I think it will be impossible



The battery will come out - just

Next job - paint the hull when I've been to the model shop on Tuesday. In the meantime I am working on the windows in the wheelhouse. I am trying to follow Neil's idea of using double sided tape. As the inside will be quite clearly visible I will be fitting my window frames on both sides. So far I have done one which looks OK - photos when I've completed one side.

Barrie

Paint bought, but its a bit cold for painting! I have completed the windows in two sides of the wheelhouse. I sort of used Neil's double sided tape method, except that having got the 'glass'fixed to the inside frame, I used polystyrene glue for the outside.

The glass ready for frames

The inside frames

Ready for outside frames

The completed side


I had already cut the holes in the sides before I decided to try this system, hence the rounded corners. Of course with the frames it is not necessary and so the remainder of the windows and glass will be cut square cornered and the frames will give the final effect. I also realise that if I use tape on both sides, I can fit the windows after painting - saves the delicate job of painting the frames.

Barrie

Barrie

Coming along now Barrie, nice job on those windows



Alan

very tidy indeed. nice work mate

Thanks - these are certainly the cleanest windows I've made yet!

Barrie

Not much to photograph recently. I been beavering away at things which don't really show - fettling fittings, filling the inside of the bulwarks, and fitting a cap to the bulwarks. I finally got round to applying a coat of paint to below the water line today, and I have started on the wheelhouse. That's quite a challenge as it has a floor and I want to include at least some detail, so working out how to get the bits in and when is exercising me at the moment

barriew wrote:

I want to include at least some detail

Hi Barrie

that's great because I really like detailed wheelhouses and I'm looking forward to yours.

Dave

Hi Dave

It wwont be really detailed, but it will have at least a wheel!! Depends how quickly I get frustrated

Barrie

Whilst struggling with the wheelhouse, I have started painting the hull and some of the fittings. Here's the hull in its present state - the band in the middle will be black.


The paint has showed up a few places where filling is required, which will be the next job after painting the black band.

I am still working on the wheelhouse. This is the current state - the front is only stuck at one side at the moment, and as you can see the shelf doesn't fit yet


Barrie

That wheelhouse is coming along lovely

The hull and wheelhouse are looking good Barrie





Alan

The hull is now completely painted - just needs tidying up and the rudders painting. Then I can get the props back on.



I've also finally fixed the front of the wheelhouse and made a shelf and support for the wheel. Just need to add a bit of detail. Looking at photos of a couple of full size boats,there is far too much to try to model at this scale. I think I will confine myself to some throttles, dials and maybe a radar display. I also need to make a chair for the captain. These are available in 1/24th scale but not it appears in 1/32nd



Barrie

Thats coming along nicely mate.

Duplicate post removed

lookin sweet, barrie.

OK, this post is for Dave (Norseman)

I have 'detailed' the wheelhouse interior now. As I said, at this scale its not possible to be too accurate, at least with my skill level



I have also fitted and painted the skegs between the rudders and Korts, so I am now ready to get a coat of varnish on the hull. I always like to varnish my hulls, as I think the varnish is more durable than the paint on plasticard. I have given the deck one coat of paint, and made the final hatch cover over the rudder posts. There is so little room under the deck that I have not used Neil's idea for sealing them. The one over the rudders is raised by 3mm, the larger one will be screwed down - I don't think this will need to come up very often.

Barrie

That's very tidy Barrie. I wish I could keep mine neat and smooth.

Well done. I like the varnish idea as I've never done that on any of mine.

cheers

ken

Kenny

I have always sailed in old gravel pits with, in consequence, gravel bottoms. It is very difficult to avoid scraping the bottom of the hull on the gravel, and I think that the varnish does help to protect the paint. The other reason for the varnish is it gives a uniform finish. Even if you use only Humbrol Matt I find the finish can vary between colours, and sometimes it is necessary to use Gloss when there is no Matt equivalent, so the Satin Varnish provides a uniform finish. I can't stand to see working boats with a high gloss finish

I gave it one coat today, it will get at least another one when I've finished everything.

Barrie

I'm going to try that on mine now.


ken

Very nicely detailed wheelhouse. Looking very good all round.

I have been beavering away with not much to show recently, but the hull is now varnished and has a name I find it quite difficult to decide on a name, I was going to continue my New Zealand theme, or use the name of my sister's full size yacht, but in the end settled on my Grandson's name The Samson posts are made and painted - not glued in yet. I have fitted the handrail to one side of the wheel house, and a locker on the front.



I have also made a winch/windlass for her. I couldn't find a ready made one that looked reasonable - most were too big or steam driven - its almost complete just waiting for the paint to dry.



Unfortunately its two trips to Addenbrookes this week, so modelling time is curtailed

Barrie

Thats some lovely work there Barrie and I for one think you've pitched the level of wheelhouse detail just about right for the scale

Some more bits and pieces added over the last couple of days. The Samson posts are now glued in; the main tow-hook assembly has been fixed and is ready for painting. I have built platforms at each side of the bow for bollards, and started on similar for the stern. Although it probably doesn't show, the wheelhouse has had a coat of paint. It will need at least one more as matt white doesn't cover very well at all.





Almost time to start on the wheelhouse roof, and I need to find or make a ladder.

Barrie

Here are the results of the last three days efforts! The Tow Bow has been installed, along with the rear bollards and the Gog iron. The deck is looking a little bare, so I may need to add some more lockers or something. I have started on the roof of the Wheel House with the Stanchions. The drawing showed three rails, but I knew I wasn't going to be able to get three layers of railings looking anything like respectable - its a very complicated pattern, so I opted for two rail. I have done the lower layer, just the upper ones to do The other roof fittings are ready to install apart from the mast which has lots of lights I plan to use LEDS, not working, and make holders from plastic tube.



Barrie

As well as painting the wheelhouse roof, I've been making the mast. I was going to use plastic tube, but then noticed it was stepped, so have used brass. I was quite surprised how easy it was to solder two tube sections and some rod together with a normal soldering iron

When it came to the supports for the cross pieces, I used some low melt solder so everything else didn't fall apart. The photo of the painted mast is out of focus - do not adjust your eyes

I now need to visit my local model shop and hope they have some suitable diameter plastic tube to make the lamp holders.
I have also ordered some high powered magnets as I want to make the roof removable to save storage space, and because if I don't something will come adrift inside



Barrie

Nice work matey very nice indeed even though it always seems a shame to paint shiny brass

Thanks Phil.

A slight set back yesterday. My local model shop didn't have any of the plastic tube that I wanted so I will have to order today from Squires. The local shop is really a model railway and dolls house type of model shop, but when I first went about two years ago they did have a stand of Evergreen plastic sections. The stand is still there but it hasn't been re-stocked in the two years! So it looks as though all my future requirements will have to come mail order. The next nearest shops are too far away to be economically viable to visit on the chance they may have what I need

Barrie

I've almost finished! I just have to make the various lights for mast and Nav lights, but the tube didn't arrive this morning. In the picture the supports for the liferafts are not fixed yet.



Barrie

A really nice model Barrie, well done.

Thanks Damien - I think the photograph flatters it rather If it sails well then I will be happy.

Barrie

Lovely all round - sweet.

Dave

Thanks Dave. I'm feeling a bit frustrated. I ordered some Plastruct tubing last Friday from Squires when my local model shop let me down and it still hasn't arrived. Not like Squires so I assume its Royal Mail. The boat is otherwise finished and ready for ballast tests, for which I am waiting for the warmer weather they keep promising

I am hoping to finish it before Sunday so it can have its maiden voyage. It may be the last opportunity for some time as my wife goes into hospital for an op on the second of March, and it looks as though I will be following soon after

Barrie