Plastic Magic again!

After completing the Coastguard tug, I bought a Revell tug kit. This is quite a bit smaller, and is proving quite a challenge. I have so far fitted the motor and prop shaft, modified the rudder and am currently trying to make up a suitable tiller and linkage to the micro servo. There will be quite good access when the deck is on, although I will need to shorten the deck at the stern to allow access to the tiller. This will be covered by the rope deck.

Barrie

  

Very nice Barrie. 

That tiller access is the world's smallest.

My goodness,  you've got your work cut out.

keep the pictures coming

ken

No progress today but I realised that if I can find a way of extending the rudder shaft, then I can go higher giving me more room for the tiller.

Barrie

I had to abandon the original plan. I have removed the moulded in rudder shaft and replaced it with a piece of brass rod. This has enabled me to raise the tiller and allow more travel. I also fixed a platform for the servo, next job is to change the connector on the servo, mount it and make a linkage.

Barrie

The servo connector has been changed to a standard Futaba type, and the servo stuck down with double sided tape. The linkage is made. Using the brass rudder post has given me the problem I was trying to avoid by using the moulded plastic one - getting the tiller to stick to the post. Super glue didn't seem to be holding.   I may need to make a brass tiller so I can solder them together.
As you can see, there is just room for all the bits, the battery will sit on top of the receiver and ESC right into the bows.

Next job is fitting the deck - when I tried it today, it seemed to be too big, which I guess means the hull has distorted. 

Barrie

Can you get the tiller arm down to rest on top of the shaft.  Then cut the surplus from above the arm.  Also, to save height problems,  you could connect the linkage below the tiller arm.

Just a few thoughts. 

 Cheers  ken

Top job 

Tug--Kenny wrote:

Can you get the tiller arm down to rest on top of the shaft.  Then cut the surplus from above the arm.  Also, to save height problems,  you could connect the linkage below the tiller arm.

Just a few thoughts. 

 Cheers  ken

Ken,

The surplus isn't really a problem as there will be no deck above it - the rope deck sits clear of the deck by about 5mm. If I lower the arm, I get less throw. My problem is getting the arm fixed to the shaft. 

Barrie

If you use the brass pin from a 13 amp plug, there will be a screw in the end.  This can be tightened onto a small flat on the shaft.  

cheers

ken

Tug--Kenny wrote:

If you use the brass pin from a 13 amp plug, there will be a screw in the end.  This can be tightened onto a small flat on the shaft.  

cheers

ken

Hi Ken - its a good idea - I use it on larger models, however in this case there is a small issue of size 



As it happens, the super glue seems to have worked.

Barrie

 I see your point.  Silly me not realising the sizes involved.

Don't tell anyone.

ken

I won't matey, lol

I narrowly averted disaster today  I was fitting the gunwales and had got them both glued along about half their length when I realised that I had them on back to front   I was just in time to remove them before the glue hardened. 
They are now installed correctly and glued again half way. hopefully I will finish them tomorrow.

Barrie

Gunwales now correctly ( more or less   ) installed. I had to create a bit of deck to replace that which I had removed. I have also done a bit more to the superstructure - the lower cabin is now complete. I am currently working out how to fit it to the deck. The hole is smaller than the cabin, so a normal coaming doesn't work. I am trying a 'reverse coaming'   , but will have to find a way to fasten it down.

Barrie

 

i like this more and more...........and it's a lovely tug to model.......reminds me of the little Ryhope i have waiting to finish.

Its going to be a nightmare to paint. So much of the detail is moulded into the deck and cabin, I am not sure I am good enough to be able to pick it out with a paintbrush.

When these two projects are finished I'm going back to something a little bigger

Barrie

when it comes to detailing very small models i always opt to dry brush over the detail areas, this way you get the detail but also get a shadow effect over the surrounding areas which if you dry brush in say blacks and browns gives you a highlighted detail and a rusted effect, this also works with white and brown, and very vivid colours extremely well.

I have now started painting the hull - two coats of black so far. I wont bother with a waterline. I have also started painting some of the small fittings - very small   Next is the deck, then I can fit the larger fittings. I don't think I am going to add the fenders, except for the bow.They don't look right.

Barrie