Robert E Peary

Robert E Peary
 
As I have put the Guardsman onto the back burner for the time being, I started to look for a new project, a late friend left me the Deans Marine kit “Robert E Peary”, just be for he went into the Hospice, he had fitted the prop shaft and rudder.
 The first things that I have to do is order a new set of drawings from Dean’s, make and relocate the rudder, the reason behind having to make a new rudder is that the rudder tube is missing and the rudder shaft is imperial, I could ask Ron to sell me a new one but as I have to wait for the new drawings I just as well make a new rudder form the stock that I have, I know that it will not be correct but in the end it will be made out of brass and not out of W/M and also I can just make it that bit bigger to help with the steering.
So on with the build. 
Fred

I've got it right it's the Liberty ship? if so that looks a nice detailed build and 1/96th scale gives a good level of detail.

Hi Swab

Yes you have got it right, it is the armed liberty ship and yes it is big it will mean back seats of the car will have to be laid flat.

Fred

Hi One & All

I now have the new set of drawing's so on with the build.

Fred

Fred 1948 wrote:

Hi Swab

Yes you have got it right, it is the armed liberty ship and yes it is big it will mean back seats of the car will have to be laid flat.

Fred

How do you think I get on I've got an MX5! post some build photos Fred this looks a good one.

Hi Swab

Yes I just know were you are coming from, before I had the SLK I had a MG 160TF. if I had the roof down on the SLK there was no boot space, and the MG the so called boot was at the front. so if it did not fit on the passenger seat no sailing for me, Just glad that we now have a C-HR. 

Fred

I have now redrilled the rudder post hole, the one to the far right is the old one and the one to the left is the new one, I will be using Isopon P40 filler to fill the hole,


The motor mount has also been fitted and fixed with P40; I used clear silicone sealant to make the bed for the motor to sit on and a brass strap to fix the motor to the bed.



In between doing this I cut out the ply subdeck’s, in the instructions it says to fix the deck support beams to the subdeck, now normally I would make a deck support frame and fixe that to the hull, but as Jack would have followed the instructions, so I will also follow them.



I have also started to fix the deck to hull beams

.

Fred

What are you making the hull to deck beams out of Fred & what thickness is your deck?

Hi One & All

In answer to Swab question, the ply deck is 1/32 and the over plastic deck is 0.5mm.

For all wood joints I am using a Aliphatic resin glue, for the deck beams to hull I am using a 24hr slow drying Epoxy glue, in the instructions all the deck beams should be Balsa wood but by the time I picked this model up this had been misplaced so I went along to my local B&Q for some 1/4 square soft wood to use for the beams, the other sheet that has also gone missing was the one that has the Gunwale supports, if I find any more parts missing I will ask Ron if he can help out by supplying the missing items but if it is only the supports I will just work out there height and make some out of scrap sheet. 

Fred

Thanks Fred.I was going to use 1/16th ply for the deck of the Waverley i may well go for 1/32 now and brace it up like you're doing.