Aero-Naut Classic

Hey guys sorry for the lack of posting last week or so, its not through lack of progress its simply a matter of letting paint dry!

As you all know i opted to varnish the base of the boat, however the stain didn't take well to the ply, i expect the ply had far to much glue in the laminate for it to take fully leaving it patchy, now as the stain is an oil based product, i was left with little choice but to enamel paint the bottom of the boat, sprays will not take to the oiled surface even with a coat of thinners applied.

Now this is not the finished coat for the boat, its actually a ''running coat'' of paint, which means this coat will seal the boats hull and lock the oil stain to not transfer into the paint layers, however this turns into a long wait with a finished paint coat, as it will take up to 3-4 months for the paint to become hard enough to smooth off ready to take a new coat on top (which will be an acrylic finish in white) so i'll run the boat for this years season once come October i'll rub down the hull and spray it up to the right colour and finish i want.

For those who want to use stains remember that oil based stains you can only seal with a varnish or oil based paint, acrylic and cellulose paints will not stick, they will crack, peel and generally cause you many headaches!


Apology's for the photos tonight my phone camera hates the light in my office

So here a photo of her Black running coat.




Fitted Windscreen (with out edging strip yet to create it from brass)



Electronics installed - MFA 385 motor 8"M2 Teflon insert prop shaft, 25mm prop, 10 amp Mtronics ESC, micro 9g servo on 7.2V NiMH
(possible to run up to 8.4V or 9.6 NiMH battery with the battery tray length)



Overall Look so far



Boat stand & box creation tomorrow!!

A mighty fine job your doing Aron well done.                

Today I've started on the stand construction.

Its not finished ..

However its made up of a 23x8" 10mm ply base, covered in navy blue leather with a pine border.
I've only made up ply vertical supports for the boat, these will be replaced with 1" thick pine supports with a pattern of some sort but i have a show tomorrow so these are a 'quick fix' until i can get the real ones made up ( i enjoy taking models that are being worked on/built to shows as its it helps people understand how models are built up always a good subject to help new people into the hobby)
So the stand so far just forgive the crap ass ply for now!

Mighty fine as is mate              

Recondition is always a compliment .... especially for an Unfinished Model!!



3rd place at the local show!!!

A well deserved 1st place went to my dad for his ''runabout'' pictured earlier in the build log here a big grats to him for his hard work and effort.

                                     
                                            

congratulations and well done         whats on the list next for building

david

Well... this ones not finished yet, detailing still to do, which i'll be cracking on with this week.

But once this models finished it will be back to the team pair of the wee nips i've been doing along side this build..

https://www.thercmodelboatforum.com/t887-wee-nip-build

After that, im undecided it will be either to finish the dolphin, which i must stress i really do take my time on building im not in a rush to get this ones knocked out

https://www.thercmodelboatforum.com/t17-ms-dolphin-mk2

I also have the 'Grand Banks' hull and cabin ready to start, i had a friend of mine who dose American warships in 1:72 scale produce me a hull in GRP with a lot of detail such as the planking effects in the gel coat ( i'll pop a photo up later of this) and i've also got a pair of 1:24th canal boats from mobile marine models ready to get started and then my 2608 stan tug. . . so guess we'll see after that!

First Run today of the boat, an earlier test showed the 385 motor was a load of crap at 7.2v, so i was fortunate to scrounge a brand new graphner 400 from my dads still in progress cruiser hes been building. Results were much better and even the spray rails were kicking the water out, overall very pleased with the performance of the boat but i would think a 30mm prop will do more justice on speed, i'll do a prop test next weekend.

Next up is just to polish the boat and add the final fittings. i wanted to wait until sea trials were finished before adding the details as damage at this point is easier to fix then later.







And some Vids for you guys!




And One of Dads Boat on her Maiden Voyage

Congratulations to both of you, Smashing boats. I saw one like it on the lake today but not nearly as perfect as your

jaydee wrote:

Congratulations to both of you, 

  
Two fold, Spot on                              

Hey guys sorry for the last update on the post I've had a few issues at home this last 3 weeks which reduced my building time.

However yesterday i did manage to get my Father to polish the boat, & as promised a quick tutorial on how to achieve a perfect mirror finish to a varnished & or car sprayed paint job.

First job is to LIGHTLY sand the surface down with 1200 grit wet and dry with LOTS of water, keep sanding until and surface burrs or run marks are gone or you are happy with the level surface of the paint.



Next up apply with a cloth some Rubbing Compound to the surface with a drop of water for lubrication, this will remove any surface marks.




After that time to get the T-cut out just get a soft cloth and rub the surface this will pull back the marked surface the rubbing compound and sanding did earlier to give you the layer that will take the polish.



Next is to apply a coat or 2 of Burnishing cream We have one specifically for this type of 2 pac epoxy varnish, just make sure you have the right cream for the right paint/varnish to achieve the right result.



Now for the Finally.

Applying the Polish.. Using a LINT cloth. You can polish as much as you want, infact the more you do it the better it gets! this boat had only 2 coats of polish but will require probably 2 more in a few days time once i add the final brass fittings.





& the Finished Results after 2 polish coats, you can of course apply more coats, or you can go one further and use a metal polish between coats of polish to really bring up the mirror, which will be the next step once the final brass fitting are in place.



Last 2 photos don't show the shine well due to the sunlight position sadly.




RR

Aron your father is a man of infinite patience I applaud you both for the quality of work you produce.
                               

A lovely thread.  I found this very helpful and wondered at the final finish.  

Superb...........      

Ken

Thanks guys, your positive comments always keep me sharing.

 I'm awaiting for some final parts to arrive for this project, some of the brass fittings and the hand rails. i've been slacking last few weeks, but the model runs great and is looking the part.

My father and i are not by any means 'perfect' scale modellers, we do however both believe when something is built it is built to the best of our ability's, there are many things i for one still struggle with to which i ask my father to help and guide, mostly metal work and the same is said for my father he will frequently ask me advice on wood working techniques and paint finishes. 

By in no means be discouraged when building if you think these models are anything ''special'' anyone can achieve a beautiful model with some time, thought and by learning from others knowledge & mistakes.

Don't think for one moment that the more money you spend the better the outcome, that's not always the case. it will always come down to your ability's. and hey I'm still learning to this day, perfect example was using a oil based stain on the boat and thinking etching primer would stick to it!  

For those who count the pennys like me when building a boat I'll do the run down of price for this model.

Basic Kit -£66
Motor -£6 
Servo -£5
ESC -£21
Shaft & Prop -£7 (optional this is an Upgraded part as kit proves 'A' shaft and prop)
Receiver (spectrum DX6) £36 
2pac Epoxy Varnish ( spare stock from other builds ) 1L £20 + Thinners 350ml £8 
Tin of Enamel paint £5 
Sand paper, multiple grades £0.25 per sheet (80-120-300-600- 1200 grit)
Tube of wood glue £5
Epoxy Glue £5 ish (vary's on location)
Paint brushes £0.25- £5 depending on quality (finer, softer brushes tend to give better results for paint work)
7.2v-9v NHIM battery (this model will take 7.2, 8.4 or 9.6v stick battery's) Price varys on Voltage, and MA capacity. Im using 7.2V 3000MA at a cost of £15.99 per battery
Ball joint servo Steering Arm (if not using the kits provided) £3 

Extras

Mahogany strip (spare stock from other project) £1.50 per M (used just under 2m) = £3
Brass pins (again spare stock) £0.99 for 200
White leather (salvaged from a thrown out sofa) FREE
Epoxy resin (used to seal the hull) £10 for a 500ml Kit, this is Optional I only do this for strength an water tightness just in case!

All Brass Fittings 

6x hand rail ball stanchions  £1.00 each = £6
2mm Brass rod 300mm length £4 x 2 = £8
Brass horn £4
Brass Flag Staff £3

Overall Grand Total = £241

Now please remember you can build this model using only the basic kit parts, and with a varnished finish to lower your costs, the provide fitting set with the kit is chromed metal parts, which are acceptable to use and of a good quality, I just opted for brass to give the boat an overall look. There are also a few parts on the build list you may already have such as spare electronic equipment, materials to build with, paint brushes, paint's sand papers, etc. the price list if there as a guide to those new to the hobbie, as this gives you a rough idea of the cost to build this model which i would say is aimed at the beginner!

There are many things added to this build that you do not have to use should you consider one yourself, so don't let the price tag put you off, like all hobbies, do it in stages and stagger your cash if your on a budget like I am.

Next update will be the finished boat, i'll try for Saturday/Sunday should my Brass horn arrive tomorrow.

RR

Boats Finished !!!! First one in 4 years and it took me 9 weeks start to finish

   

 
Today i've added the brass hand rails and then given it 2 polish coats using Brasso then 2 further coats of car polish. The hull will need repainting at the end of the season, so watch for a post for that, when i repaint the hull 'i'll add the gold line and the name then. but for now this projects all done and dusted..

Enjoy the photos guys.. oh and enjoy the shine   




















RR

Superb build. A pleasure to watch

Cheers

ken

Ditto what Ken said.
                                          
                                               

Well guys and girls boating season is nearly over another 8 weeks or so then the bad weather starts again mwhaha. gotta love a downer   

Anyhow I've been running the little classic since April basically and have had a few issues with it, nothing major, however mostly due motor issues, I wanted the boat to be 'reasonably' fast and i guess the video of the German guy with his whacking 2200kv brushless motor still played on my mind as to what this little boat could do... Video here as a reminder...




the graphner 400 7.2v motor was running fine at 7.2v using a NHMI 3200 pack on a 25mm prop and well its speed was pathetic. really it was. so i upped the prop to a 30mm, which to say was much better, speed was pretty dam good.. however... oh yes boys and girls that motor got hot!!! and WAY to hot. so much so that the can at one point started smoking and melting the label off the can!

So plan B.. make up a cooling coil......

yeah that didnt work out so well.. coil came out perfect but i just wasn't getting the cooling i needed, sadly the graphner 400's rated for 7.2 cant spin a 30mm prop easily with out over heating. now due to the excess heating of the motor its dragged down the running time dramatically. i was getting around 15 mins at full power from the battery and then it would just simply die off.   yeah i expected 40 mins at least on a 3200 pack, and my 4500 packs were only giving me 20 mins or so.

So plan C 

and heres where the brushless boys will all get rocks on   

I'm taking this little beauty brushless!

Now normally i would use and in-runner and there is no reason why i couldn't do that here, however as i mentioned just a short time before that German and his mega crazy brushless beastie i figured i can do better   

I haven't gone for some type of 4500KV motor... 

I've opted to instead go with a outrunner. reason is simple in runners give pure RPM, outrunners give decent RPM but much more Torque leaving me the option to bounce up to a 35mm Planing or even a 30mm X prop       
 
Now in regards to the RPM... i'm using a 1200 KM Out runner running still on the 7.2V Nhmi packs no lipos sorry guys i am still not a huge fan of lipos so its 1200x7.2 = 8640RPM ok that sounds really pathetic... however outrunners are normally used on model Air craft to spin up wards of 12" props! now imagine if a little 1200kv out runner can spin a 12" air craft prop and keep a plane in the air for 30 mins imagine what it can do to a tiny 35 mm prop, trust me i know, you have all seen the video of my fathers runabout running a 1500KV outrunner on 7.2v on a 45 plane prop.

Heres the setup... 1200KV outrunner rated at 16Amp, a 25 continual seaking ESC (50 amp burst/stall) water cooled running on 7.2v stick packs.

So anyway heres the new install photos and a video hopefully tomorrow should it not blow up, burn to the ground or crash and i sink     

Old Motor & its coil


Shiny new bad ass motor 


Old and new motor comparison


ESC


Inlet


Outlet


Enjoy guys wish me luck!!

I expect you'll have fun with this on the water Aron. 
No luck needed  You've done a grand job                     She'll be great.

ABSOLUTELY BEAUTIFUL........TREMENDOUS AND STUNNING..............you have certainly shown us all a thing or two about building and finishing on this one...........superb. neil.

Evening Guys & Girls

Apology's for not posting sooner...

Heres a laugh for you lot..

What happens when you have a 2mm prop shaft running a outrunner motor and it snags on a plastic bag in the lake? 

Well you would think the load voltage would blow up the ESC right? 

(if only that was the case)

Instead.... It Twisted the prop shaft in the sleave!!!!! now it looks like a cork screw.. ( i would have posted a photo but umm yeah that shaft took a beating when i finally got it out, needless to say its now embedded into my workshop door when it got fired from the air gun as a final **** you!)



Plan B..

The motor preformed well, but i was still only getting a similar speed to the 400 motor just with no heat issues, i figured swapping out the prop to something in a plain size or X type, issues there was you cant get planing or x props for M2 shafts..

Guess this little mishap has done me a favor..

Time for new Toys 

One M4 Slimline prop shaft (these are stunning shafts by the way, have always used them when given the chance)
One Solid state rubber coupling.
One 35MM plaining prop
One 35MM X Prop
One Fooking Huge hole in boat....

Plan now is to fit this beast up with a Real prop and not the 3 blade crappy shite. Mwhahah!!!









More Photos to follow, since im doing this rather major repair i figured i would take the time to now smooth of the running paint coat and give her her final finish coat..

If this all goes wrong and the boat dose not perform its going for sale section or the bin which ever i get to first..

Oh and on a much funnier note.. any of you guys ever seen a DX6 transmitter spark like a biatch when you ''accidentally'' drop it in the water?

I know i did today  shame it was mine tho  

Bad day huh! 

RR

How many black cats crossed your path today Aron?
I hope this is the end of your bad luck session m8.
I'd guess there were some choice words similar to when I fell on my paddle boat.

 bad luck if only, i think i'm jinxed!

Only good side to all this is that repairs are straightforward enough and it dosnt bother me to much to do them, i just wish i could have done back and did this job with a decent shaft at the start, but no biggy, just one of those things, on the other note tho it really dose show how good outrunners are for torque!!
Anyhow photo update in a couple of days once i get some free time after work.

Just an Update guys on the classic repairs, shes all fixed but just requires the electronics refittings and a new paint job on the hull which wont be done now until the new project is at the paint stage ( same colour paint job )

So just some photos of the fixes 


Still in one piece (kinda) 


New m4 stainless steel Propshaft glassed in place with a 35mm planing prop fitted (x-prop can be used during final sea trials!!) and hull sanded to bare wood (just remeber my oil based stain issue when it comes to painting!!!)


Same motor just using a solid ruber flex coupling this time with the M4 shaft

Well figured i would take a moment to fix the classics hull pint job early... upcoming show in 2 weeks time dictating the process.

Now in no way take any of this as gospel, because this paint jobs 100% trial & error.
remember my issue is the oil based stain on the hull panels, not a lot is going to stick to it, even the enamel paint i used stuck but i was able to pretty much peel it if in 1 go when i started the repair, i'm not sure if that's normal, I've never needed to sand back enamel paint to a bare surface before now...

Ok so heres what i've done for prep work, i have wiped down the wood surface 3 times with thinners and allowed to dry for a few days, next i gave the bottom panel 1 coat of sanding sealer, the sanded with 600 grit so it was smooth, then did the final repair work on the shaft exit with P38 sanded down smooth. then gave the boat 2 thin coats of rustins water based problem solving primer, i'm hoping this will work as a stain blocker as well as a base primer for a new enamel coat (I was gong to spray, simply can't be bothered, and not wanting to risk having to rub the boat down yet again if something reacts.)

Small update here..

Classic has been repainted in Navy blue.

I'll give her a few weeks to harden off then flip her over and put her back together. Fingers crossed I have better luck this year!
 

Finally back to normal and repaired for a sail on Sunday to try this new shaft out. Fingers crossed.