Wrigley 121

This may be a lengthy build depending on healthy and surgery with in 60 days
5Now I have most of the materials needed I made a start.



I guess it's an odd place to start but I started with the funnel, as the pic shows I started with a Barocca can and wrapped 1 sheet of printer paper coated with glue stick glue after over night to dry it got a coat of dope.



The circle of styrene is 2 pieces of 2mm glued together & is 1 of 2 for the centre drive of the paddles,

I then cut 3mm strips of the paper 2 strips were needed for each ring on the funnel.



added detail.



Some more dope followed be flat black Humbrol.



I then cut some leather strips to check if the loop was long enough for a drive belt a 3mm overplap super glued will hold a 5kg load.
I've yet to make the drive pulleys, I think the join will go around a 9mm pulley.

Next I used the lathe again on the outer disc's for paddle drive and brass bush's, I had trouble getting 8swg piano wire I eventually got a pair of m/aircraft landing gear legs from France on ebay.



I then cut 16 paddle blades a little oversize once cut they were squared on 2 sides I clamped them firmly and trued them on my disc sander.
They were marked where 3mm sq braces were needed.




I diverged a bit and started the motor mounts the idea is for sliding unit spring loaded to keep belt tension some 3mm styrene I wrapped the motors with aluminium foil then mixed some 2 part filler, put a blob on the styrene and pushed the motor into it whilst keeping it square when dry the motors lifted out easily a the foil peeled off the bog without problems.
I plan on styrene tube for the runners.



The jig was made per Glynn Guest's run down in Model Boats.



The first wheel finished the outer disc's were spun on the lathe and the centres removed one at a time with a parting tool the styrene didn't like it and flexed wildly I found a piece of 8mm aluminium rod which was held firmly behind the styrene
when almost through a bit of wobbling and the centre came out and was used to make the inner hub.







That's it for now we've had a 39.7c day it's 33.3c on computer desk and 48c in my shed and all the room fan seems to do is dehydrate us.

That is too hot Damien. We do get to 40 degrees in summer, but only occasionally. Normally mid thirties and that is hot enough!

Coming on nicely.

Thanks Barry I'm happy with it so far was somewhat cooler today top of 28 so went sailing results of that elsewhere.

gawd, they're good matey.............................................gives me inspiration to do something other than a lifeboat.

neil

As if that's likely Neil you're addicted to life boats

Nice looking project Damien I really must look that copy of model boats out

Thanks Phil, I finished the second paddle wheel today can't get a pic yet Jo has the memory card of the camera out waiting to get photo's printed off it.

Very impressed with the wheels Damien. I have had two attempts at making paddle wheels and they weren't anything like as good as those. You do have the advantage of a lathe of course, but just getting the paddles aligned accurately is quite a challenge.

Barrie

Thanks Barrie, I did the blades-spokes-strengtheners first and left them for a few days to dry, I found the blade spacing the hardest to manage.
The jig suggested in the text of the article made everything align quite easily.

3 pic's of both wheels from different aspects.







For something different I made 4 x 5AA cell 2800Ma packs to power the 2 x 12 5pole ex hair dryer motors.

Two motors Damien! does this mean differential paddle steering to assist the rudders ?

Differential paddle steering is the only steering the model has Phil should be fun.

Being a stern wheeler (or did I misread the earlier posts) I'd say that steering with just the paddles will be a challenge mate

Phil In the article by Glynn Guest he describes it as tank steering and said it worked well Slow turn with one paddle stationary and a quick turn with one fwd the other reverse.

Meanwhile I'm in build mode, today I made the motor pulley's for paddle drive,

I decided to give the motor trays a bigger footprint to spread the load on the sliding rails.



I tried to get more 8swg wire on ebay found none, a UK seller had 4mm x 333mm silver steel that will do nicely
My little lathe has had a workout the last few days.

It was designed by Glynn as a pusher tug I've decided mine will be a passenger ferry as those from days gone by did on lake Wendouree where I sail.

I understand the principle of steering with the paddles Damien just surprised that its effective with a stern wheeler given that the wheels are so close together as the active wheel will be trying to push the full length of the boat sideways where as with a side wheeler its more of a spin about the hull centre I'm guessing you'll need a fairly shallow draft to make it more effective

Phil - it does work with a stern wheeler. I built Lulonga with two rear wheels. It isn't easy to steer, but it is possible. You really need a Tx with self centering on both vertical axis.

Barrie

how about elevon style mixing Barrie

for the non aero modelers thats where channel 1 is mixed with channel 2,

use channel 1 as throtle 1 (up = full throttle fwd both motors, down full reverse both motors)

and channel 2 as throttle 2 so full right rudder slows/reverses the right motor and full left slows/reverses the left motor

so throttle and rudder are on one stick and whatever your fwd/reverse throttle setting are as you steer left/right the motors change speed accordingly obviously you need this function on your tx mostly computer tx's though my flight link 4 channel non comp model has this as a function switch albeit hidden in the bty compartment

Still surprised it works lol

Worth a try the radio I'm in paypal dispute over is 4ch with with 5 buttons on the front for mixing didn't come with instructions though.

phil winks wrote:

how about elevon style mixing Barrie

Yes it should work, I think I used a mixer on Lulonga, but I had so many problems with the drive that I gave up.

Barrie

What about the P94 from ACTion. That is a speed controller that will put one motor into reverse for steering purposes. It works beautifully on a twin screw tug, Could it work here?


http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/mixers.php

Barrie

I think that is what I used, but can't quite remember.

Barrie

Footski wrote:

What about the P94 from ACTion. That is a speed controller that will put one motor into reverse for steering purposes. It works beautifully on a twin screw tug, Could it work here?

Thats a bolt on mixer and works a dream, however postage from blighty might be prohibitive for Damien sweltering in a 41 degree Oz summer bless him poor lad

phil winks wrote:

Footski wrote:

What about the P94 from ACTion. That is a speed controller that will put one motor into reverse for steering purposes. It works beautifully on a twin screw tug, Could it work here?

Thats a bolt on mixer and works a dream, however postage from blighty might be prohibitive for Damien sweltering in a 41 degree Oz summer bless him poor lad

Its actually a dual ESC and mixer combined. Its quite light weight so I don't think postage would be too much of a problem. However its quite a bit more expensive than the ESCs he's planning on using.

Barrie

Footski wrote:

Its actually a dual ESC and mixer combined. Its quite light weight so I don't think postage would be too much of a problem. However its quite a bit more expensive than the ESCs he's planning on using.

Barrie

Well worth the price though Barrie if the other products of Daves I've used are any sort of yard stick including a bespoke led voltage indicator thats just perfect

phil winks wrote:

Footski wrote:

What about the P94 from ACTion. That is a speed controller that will put one motor into reverse for steering purposes. It works beautifully on a twin screw tug, Could it work here?

Thats a bolt on mixer and works a dream, however postage from blighty might be prohibitive for Damien sweltering in a 41 degree Oz summer bless him poor lad

Not just the postage mate the P94 costs 79 quid around $120au definitely a no no.
I'll modify the throttle gimbal to self centre.

Damien wrote:

Not just the postage mate the P94 costs 79 quid around $120au definitely a no no.
I'll modify the throttle gimbal to self centre.

I know exactly what you mean Damien Daves prices aint cheap but you do get what you pay for from him, Mostly

I trust the heat aint causing you all to many problems mate

hi

i have built ps waverley and use a mtroniks mixer, they are about £15.00 here in uk but they turn my waverley on a very tight circle . i know you have rear paddles but do they turn seperatley? if so it should work the same for you just a suggestion. i use hitec laser 4 channel



david

Quote "I trust the heat aint causing you all to many problems mate"
Phil respite today 23c expected for the rest of week 17c, 23c, 28c 28c 35c 26c other parts of Oz had 50c a few days ago Ballarat is usually 4-5c cooler than Melbourne as we are considerably higher.

David. The mixer sounds good however I've decided to modify the throttle gimbal to self centering and steer it Tank style as Glynn Guest suggested thanks for your thoughts.
Damien.

phil winks wrote:

I understand the principle of steering with the paddles Damien just surprised that its effective with a stern wheeler given that the wheels are so close together as the active wheel will be trying to push the full length of the boat sideways where as with a side wheeler its more of a spin about the hull centre I'm guessing you'll need a fairly shallow draft to make it more effective

The hull is 635mm L x 151mm W 50mm H with draught of 32mm it's a small boat for flat water sailing.
I think the hardest part to make were the paddles everything else I've done on other models.
D.

Yesterday I built the bridge.



Productive afternoon Hull went together quite quickly.
I thought it a little low in Glynns pic's in MB's so I added 5mm to give a litte extra above the waterline hopefully to handle any ripples on the lake.





Some sanding and filling required, I can't get over how sturdy the 2mm printers card is almost as stiff as ply it get a bit furry some dope and sanding will settle it down.

The card wrap around the bridge had a wrinkle in it after Doping that I wasn't happy with so removed it and cladded in balsa.



The paddle wheel support arms were added next.



I started on the motor bay and decided on the angle for the floor.
more pic's tomorrow.

coming along beautifully damien.............Sadly I never saw any of these craft when I visited the hunter river years ago.........don't suppose conservation was a big thing in those days.

neil.

I'm not sure if River trade was used in NSW other than the Murray which was used as a trade route at about 2400km length.
There are about a dozen restored side wheelers on the Murray River that borders NSW, Vic and SA split between Swan Hill, Echuca and Mildura. Each port run river cruises At Swan Hill one is fitted out as a working Restaurant r

I'm progressing quicker than I thought It's made very easy with the 2mm card that is as stiff as Ply and easier to work.
My Chrissy pres 4" saw got a workout yesterday cutting the spruce spars and running strakes on the hull bottom.

looking good Damien just wish I could find the time to finish my new workshop (gloryfied name for my shed lol) so I can get something on the go as my todo list is way to long

Thanks Phil going to do a bit this morning it's going to be 29c this arvo.
forgot to click enter didn't I.

Where I finished last night with filler applied.



Today.
I got a bit of sanding done the with my favourite tool for fiddly bits an emery board I tackled all the corners.



After the sanding done the motor placement checked waiting on silver steel for rails from UK.





That's it for today have an elderly lady coming to learn my tricks for painting a picture. if she ever stops talking & I can get a word in edgeways

you'll be in bovver if she reads this,

She's pooter illiterate I passed on all my tip in half an hour and she talked non stop for 2h 40min I'm glads I pulled the pin on teaching art last year at the community house all who were interested were the same as her only fought to get a word in.

These strips are hull protection against accidental grounding.



Coaming strips ready for cabin.



The general layout of the motor slides which have to be re-configured as presently the drive belts rub on the spruce cradle and will be lowered.

Coming on nicely....

Thanks Barry.

I removed the spruce slide end pieces and embedded the stern one into the stern block and as I'd already cut the silver steel rods the forward end had to be repositioned and tunnels were made for water ingress to escape.
I shaped the tunnels with a 12mm drum sander in my Dremel then with some 30yo 1/32 balsa and super glue and fingers to press it into shape whilst glue dried

Definitely coming on Damien love the sliding motor mount watching with real interest as I can't find my copy of the mag

Some 1.5mm styrene to hold the motor rails captive I've ordered some 1/4" 90deg angle hold the other end of the rods.



Just enough clearance.



Engine room constructed the bottom of stern wall doesn't make contact with the hull I put some 1/4sq spruce as stiffening to allow access to the retaining screws and the styrene rod cover it will be covered by the cabin roof.


Both paddles in position.

Nice Damien very nice proper job Matey

hi damien,

glad to see your progress, the motor fittings look great should run well when belts are fitted.

david

Leather drive belts made and work well with finger pressure.





Tension springs in place in use if it needs more tension I'll add a second to each motor.



2 x 2.5mm spacers and a 5mm spacer to align the paddles correctly.

After removing the motors rails and paddles I painted polyester resin inside the motor bay I mixed for so long I thought it'd set before I finished painting as it turned out some of it took 48 hrs to cure with 4 finger prints where I attempted to pick it up at 24 hours.

Question for you Neil this resin is thickening with age can I thin it with a little acetone or do I need to get some polymer thinners?