White Star

Will Everard is finished at last  It really became a bit of a toil at the end. I planned that my next project should be the Grand Banks yacht using the mouldings I bought from RR, but studying the plans it looked as though this would also be a tricky build, so I looked around for a simpler project. I may return to the Grand Banks if I don't get a buyer for the mouldings.

This is another ebay purchase of a kit someone bought, started and soon abandoned. Its an early version of the kit which means die cut not laser cut which in turn means ropier ply than would be the case if it was laser cut. It is another Billings, but for once the diagrams look to be pretty comprehensive. The instructions and photos are clear - not a copy of a copy of a.........
All that had been done was the floor and deck had been fitted. In fact the floor had come adrift. I suspect because the hull is ABS and the wrong glue had been used. Surprisingly the deck is well stuck.

This is what I received



I removed the floor and cleaned off the old glue then realised it was warped, so I cut a new one from 3mm liteply.

 

This is it dry fitted



The first issue I have is how to secure the prop shaft.  This is recessed in the hull and the floor just has a slot cut into it to allow the shaft through. The shaft can't be fitted before the floor because there is a bulkhead across the slot



The bit of wood is testing my Gorilla glue to make sure it hasn't gone off, and will stick to ABS.

Barrie

I have now stuck the 'floor' in with Gorilla Glue. It wasn't quite clear how it should fit, but I hope its not critical  I have also fitted coamings to two sides as I think I need to build the cabin on the hull. The flimsy stand provided in the kit collapsed so I am in the process of making a new one!
First part of the cabin was to stick the bulkhead to the rear deck.

 

No real problems so far , although as predicted the ply could be better quality and it will take some work to get a good finish. The edges of the deck which had been stuck on by the previous owner are rather rough but should be covered by the cabin sides.

Barrie

I had to re-glue the joint between the cabin bulkhead and the rear deck - my fault I knocked it! I have been looking at the cabin sides. There is a very prominent grain, so I have covered them in filler, then sanded down. Hopefully this will allow a good finish. For the main deck I have given it two thick coats of sanding sealer - rubbed down between coats. I think it will need a few more.
Cutting out the window frames for the front of the cabin I had a disaster. The die cutting was very poor - no way near cut through, and in Releasing the parts one of them 'fell to pieces'  I will have to try to create a new one, although I do not have anything to copy - no plan.



Barrie

I didn't realise just how long the White Star is, or I might have bought one years ago whilst they were still on the market...…...reminds me of a boat I used to go out on fishing in Morecambe bay called Wandering Star...….

well, fishing was a very optimistic word………...feeding the fish with my egg n bacon breakfast would be more adept, lol....

always thought it was a nice boat but too small for Fleetwood lake...…….you have sur[prised me Barrie.

Neil, I think you were probably correct. It will be very light I think so would probably require a very calm day to sail at Fleetwood, from what I hear of the conditions there

The kit is still made by Billings.

Barrie

 

More progress today. Decks rubbed down - I think they will be OK now. The cabin sides joined to the bulkhead annd rear deck - hopefully NOT to the main deck   - there is some tape under the rear deck and at the bows.

Next job  - if these bits are stuck securely - will be to sort out the windows at the front of the cabin. This is where I had the problem yesterday. I have made a new one, but can't be sure it will fit until I can try it out.

Barrie

 

Well it wasn't stuck to the hull  so I was able to move onto the lower windows. These were pretty tricky to get right, and I had to make another centre section as the one I made yesterday wasn't wide enough . This area will need a lot of filling and sanding . I then moved onto the next level. When I came to fit this deck I found it was too short - I suspect because I didn't get the lower windows in the right place . I cut a new one from 2mm liteply, and fitted the three windows. These went in much better   I am now ready to fit the upper deck.
One problem I can see ahead is how to glaze these lower windows. There is not much access to either level when to final deck is on. The kit does include plastic window frames which I plan to paint with a silver colour to simulate aluminium. I also plan to tint the glazing as the motor sits in the cabin.
I had a look at how to fit the servo and at the moment I can't see how to get it fitted to give a reasonable run for the operating rod. The drawings I have don't show the RC installation, but the ones on the Web from the latest kit version do have a suggested layout so I will have to study those.

Barrie

Later

I checked the latest plans, I hadn't realised that the two wells don't go down the the floor. There is plenty of room for the servo etc.

The two layers of window frames were filled and the top of the upper layer sanded ready for the next deck. This has a stiffening piece to hold the upper edge of the frames. The 'instructions' imply fitting this to the underside of the deck before that is glued in place. This leaves the question of its location . So I glued the deck in position then fitted the stiffener.
The window frames have been sanded back and we are ready for the final bit - the upper steering position. This is a thin piece of ply to be curved round a former. 
Once I have finished adding to the cabin I will attend to the fit along the deck. At the moment it isn't perfect

Barrie

 

Looking rather spiffing there old bean 

Dave...(running for cover lol)

Are you allowed to run? 

Glad to hear you've recovered.

Barrie

Another good session this morning. All major assemblies now constructed. In particular the upper steering position. I though this was going to be difficult, but in fact it went well. I decided to use CA with accelerator, and stuck it in sections. The floor needs to be planked so I will do that before fixing it to the upper deck. 
The main well has to be fixed to the underside of the deck. It too needs a planked floor, so I think I may do that before fixing in place. The rear well just drops in and will allow access to the steering servo, and possibly a switch.
Soon be time for painting  That is going to be a bit of a problem as the weather is unlikely to let me spray outdoors, so it looks like brushing. At least most of it is white  I do have a strip of moulded plastic to go over the deck to hull join. I am undecided whether to fit that before or after painting. It is sort of white and I don't know how well it will take paint.

Barrie

 

The steering position deck has been planked. I used some lime that I had as I thought the supplied mahogany was too dark. I will stain it teak. I also made the two floor gratings for the wells. The main well has been fixed to the cabin structure, and two ramps made and fixed, along with the cabin door.

There should be a rubbing strip on the hull at the stern, but I can't find the stripwood detailed so I will have to see what I have in my stock. The next major job is to install the running gear and sort out motor and servo mounts and decide where the batter is going. There is plenty of room for everything as I will use a small 7.4 volt LiPo battery.

Barrie

Not much modelling time today - on Grandson duties.
I did however manage to glue the steering deck to the main cabin. This was a bit tricky as the roof of the main cabin is curved and the steering deck is fairly rigid owing to the curved front. However with a bit of filler I think it will be OK.

 

I then turned my attention to the propshaft. I didn't get too far with this. Getting the angle and position requires x-ray vision. I think the supplied shaft is not as long as is shown in the drawings. At the moment to get clearance for the prop, the coupling is directly under the cabin bulkhead, and there is not enough clearance
There appear to be two solutions - either push the prop back towards the rudder, but then I'm not sure about the motor position, or alternatively buy a new longer shaft.

Barrie

that is looking good matey...I really like that...……….next time one comes up on ebay i'm going to have a bid or two...…..plenty of scope for detailing

 Looking Good Barrie. 

Clamps Off and the join looks OK. I have filled the gap, and I think it will look good when painted.  
Next the prop shaft. I used my dremel with a sanding attachment to alter the slot in the floor to change the angle, and the pushed the whole further astern. The coupling now fits under the well, and the motor is in the cabin  I made a mount and fixed the motor. I then pumped silicone sealant into the well under the floor to seal the shaft to hull join - I hope . The shaft was secured using P40. 
Next was a mount for the servo. This fits under the rear well. Not the most elegant bit of woodwork, but functional  . I just need a couple of screws to fix it to the floor. I wanted to be able to remove it or I could have glued it down.



Finally I fitted the windbreak to the top of the steering deck. This went surprisingly easily and just needs some filler.



I have actually cut the plastic window frames from their sprues. They appear to be intended to fit inside the window openings. This means that I will have to glaze the windows from the inside. I took the opportunity of slightly milder weather to spray the acetate with black tint.

Barrie

I started painting  All the superstructure has had one coat of paint - matt white for most of it, dark grey for the decks and teak stain for the wood bits. All the white will need at least another coat. I am hoping to spray the white bits of the hull, but that will depend on the weather.  Once the superstructure paint is finished I can start on the fittings. 

Barrie
I notice there is a completed one for sale on ebay - looks pretty rough to me. Maybe there is hope for me yet

  

 Looking mighty fine Barrie. 

Damien wrote:

 Looking mighty fine Barrie. 

it ios that...……...I want one lol.

nhp651 wrote:

Damien wrote:

 Looking mighty fine Barrie. 

it ios that...……...I want one lol.

Neil, the kit new is only £105 from Cornwall Model Boats! Late Christmas Present??????

Barrie

All the white paint has been lightly rubbed down and re-coated with satin White. Unlike Neil there is no chance of me spraying indoors - even after January 7th  I therefore gave the top of the hull a brushed coat of Satin White.
The window frames have been painted with a metallic silver paint. The chairs have had their supports fitted, and I've started on the mast and Radar. I also made a mount for the Mtroniks ESC I will be using. These are always a little difficult to fix so I made this to allow it to slide in and out. It will be glued to the floor.

Barrie

barriew wrote:

I notice there is a completed one for sale on ebay - looks pretty rough to me. Maybe there is hope for me yet

  

I saw that barrie…….but not in the same league as yours, and I quite like the idea of working in wood for a change. 

i'll keep looking.

I wasn't happy with the decals supplied with the kit. They are printed on clear plastic film. The sheet had been folded and some were coming away. I know from Will Everard that the adhesive deteriorates so I decided to try and cut them in new vinyl.
A couple of hours with two computers, a couple of programs, a scanner and my vinyl cutter and this is what I have.



I still have to 'weed' the names to remove the inner parts of the A and R, but otherwise I'm quite pleased with these.

I think these will look better than those in the kit and will last longer. This adhesive has a five years plus outdoor life.

Happy Christmas to all,

Barrie

I gave all the white bits another coat of Satin White today, and the window frames had another coat of silver. I also finished building the mast and started painting it - a bit tricky that  Difficult to get a brush to some parts. I also started to make some templates for the window glazing. Where I could get access I inserted white card behind the opening and drew round it. Next stage is to cut these out and try them for fit before cutting the acetate. I think I need to get the frames glazed and fitted before I start adding any fittings. The same applies to the lettering etc. On the deck at the bows the kit includes two shaped pieces of ply, but I think this will look strange with a lip. I assume its is simulating a non-slip part of the deck which would surely be inset. I think I will try to cut some vinyl to the shapes supplied as that will look neater.

Barrie

barriew wrote:

I gave all the white bits another coat of Satin White today, and the window frames had another coat of silver. I also finished building the mast and started painting it - a bit tricky that  Difficult to get a brush to some parts. I also started to make some templates for the window glazing. Where I could get access I inserted white card behind the opening and drew round it. Next stage is to cut these out and try them for fit before cutting the acetate. I think I need to get the frames glazed and fitted before I start adding any fittings. The same applies to the lettering etc. On the deck at the bows the kit includes two shaped pieces of ply, but I think this will look strange with a lip. I assume its is simulating a non-slip part of the deck which would surely be inset. I think I will try to cut some vinyl to the shapes supplied as that will look neater.

Barrie

I think I would have sprayed that one with a rattle can.

I thought about it Neil, but I don't think that would have been much easier, and the weather is not conducive to spraying at the moment, even here 'darn sarf'.  :lol!:3

I think another session will produce an acceptable result.

Barrie

barriew wrote:

I thought about it Neil, but I don't think that would have been much easier, and the weather is not conducive to spraying at the moment, even here 'darn sarf'. 

Barrie

same up here mate........but needs must, and I lost my mates large furniture workshop some time ago where I used to use his spraybooth in winter...…...before timing my paint jobs to spring summer and autumn...…

I have come to the stage where I am going to have to paint these lifeboats...….in bit parts.

Stavros has offered to do them, but as he s now recuperating I don't really want to burden him, so am thinking of bringing mine now indoors and putting some shower curtains up indoors with central heating on, and French windows open lol. ……..drastic yes but gotta do it, lol.

Oh NEIL bring the darned things down will you PLEASE 


DO AS YOU ARE TOLD WILL YOU 


Dave

stavros wrote:

Oh NEIL bring the darned things down will you PLEASE 


DO AS YOU ARE TOLD WILL YOU 


Dave

ok matey...…..I'll drill the holes for every thing I need in the right places, then sand then down using 120 then 400/800 wet n dry and then make arrangements to bring them down and leave with you whilst I work on the fittings...…….is that ok with you matey...….cheers,

you are a good un. and I daren't argue with you mate...……...give me a couple of weeks please. c

cheers mate you are a star.

yeah NO probs at all


Dave

cheers mate.

Glad you got that sorted Neil

I put the 'decals' on today. The one round the upper deck was tricky to get right , but I think it looks OK. I also marked the waterline and gave the underside one coat of paint. I'm not sure it will stay this colour - its the nearest I have to the Billings colour given on the plan. The mast had another coat and will be OK I think. I also painted the instrument panel and wheel ready for fitting. I've brought the moulding for the deck edge inside to warm up and soften ready for fitting.

Barrie

  

The bottom of the hull has now had 3 coats of paint. I have brought the hull indoors to harden off, and also to try fitting the moulding round the hull/deck join. I figure this will be easier in the warm . I also fitted the first batch of window frames with their glazing. The remaining frames have been glazed ready for fitting. This went slightly better than I was expecting

Barrie

whats the moulding made from, Barrie, and what did you use to stick it.

nhp651 wrote:

whats the moulding made from, Barrie, and what did you use to stick it.

Not sure what its made from Neil - plastic I presume. This is what it looks like



I was thinking of using either canopy glue on the edge of the hull/deck join, or running thin superglue round the edge of the moulding underneath, hoping capillary action would take it in.

Barrie

The moulding is on - or most of it is . It is not stuck and I don't think it would be possible to stick it as it was attached as it was struggle to get it on. The channel in the moulding is 2mm, the deck/hull thickness varies from 3m to over 4mm where the glue is thick. My idea now is to run thin superglue into the joint shown here between the moulding and the hull and hope capillary action will take it under the moulding . I don't really want to do it at the deck/moulding joint as it will leave glue marks on the deck.



Barrie

ahhh, cheers...………...wondered whether it might have been rubber or silicon based. cheers.

Definitely not silicone, but I suppose it could be rubber. Having got it on, I've just realised that I need to take it off again . I should have started at the centre of the transom, otherwise I will have an awkward join. Ah well, if I did it once I'm sure I can do it again

Barrie

just wondering what adhesive to use to glue the rubber belting onto the two Shannon's.

Neil just give Andy Models by design a call he will advise you

Dave

stavros wrote:

Neil just give Andy Models by design a call he will advise you

Dave

will do.

The rubbing strip has been re-attached with a join at the centre of the transom. I took care to stick the join and each side of it with Superglue, and also introduced some at various points around the hull. I think that should be adequate.

The remaining window frames have been fitted, and some checker plate on the deck. Apart from that I have been painting fittings. I had also fitted a boot topping made from the vinyl I use to cut the boat names, but this doesn't seem to have stuck very well. I may have to paint the topping.

   

The next job will be to start fitting stanchions.

Barrie

I was going to start on the railings, but decided I should finish off 'the works' before I  made access more difficult . Although there is lots of space I still had some problems fitting everything in. This was  compounded by the wiring on Mtroniks ESCs which is pretty rigid, and the need to use plugs and sockets for the battery.



I still have to fix the ESC - I'm waiting for some epoxy glue to come - and also build a box for the battery before I complete the wiring with a switch and possibly a fuse.

Barrie

always fit a fuse mate..……..its worth the tiny expense to save the heartache of a blown ESC.

ONG defo fit a fuse simply as Mtronics have a NASTY habit of CATCHING FIRE big time....M8 showed a pic of one on fire on Face book the other evening and Had been connected correctly all he did was switch the tx/rx on to test his motor before sailing this weekend....simply Would NOT fit them into any of my boats,I always fit ACTion electronics simply as Iv'e Never had one blow up due to an internal fault....OK Milbs I have BLOWN them up doing something stupid....thought I would get that fact out before YOU DO ......


PROOF

49706000_10213228056562553_8596064077267075072_n (2) by David Jones, on Flickr

Dave - I'm using the Mtroniks because it came with the kit, although I have never had any problems with them in the past. Recently I've been building small models with very low power and little spare space so I have tended to leave out the fuses - the ESCs I use cost less than a fiver so no real problem if they blow up.
For this one however, the 400 motor is a different story and I have incorporated one of Action's fuses - after all Dave did make them at my suggestion .
The wiring is finished and tested. The ESC and battery box are still to be stuck down. When that is done then I will tidy and secure the wiring. I also need to remove the Servo and screw the arm in place.



I think the 400 motor may be too powerful. If so I will replace with a 360 size.
Back to railings next

Barrie